ha #2
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- Posts: 132
- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:13 am
- Location: germany
ha #2
these are my second pair of skis. they just left the annealing furnace tonight.
specs: sintered base, triax, core: maple, abachi, ash sidewalls, triax, varnsih
177,5cm 137/106/126mm 23m radius
it s a sideall construcion via vacuum. i cut all (core and tip/tail spacer) accurately fitting or with 1mm overhang. the overlapping parts were cut and sanded off afterwards. i tried to put a topsheet on the the last layer of glass, but i didnt stick to teh ski anyway. the conclusion: there s no way to put topsheets on via vacuum. even the last layer of glass wasn t very sticky. i used as resin sicomin 8200 with 8203 hardener. friend of mine had the same problem, light fabrics were peelable like peel plys...seems its a resin problem, i ll switch next time the resin for the upper layer.
i peeled it of the light glass. the result you can see now is a very micropore surface. it s the heavy fabric (804gr/sm triaxial) just with a varnish on it. looks pretty good the rough surface, we ll see if it s just practical in snow.
also teh varnish is shit... it s basco varnish from r&g. but it isn t scratch proof at all.
could you recommend me a varnish, scratch proof, glossy, uv resistent??
there s been also trouble profiling the core. i used the method ones here described by the router bridge. semmed to work nicely but i had problem to fix the board flat on the stencil. it was always protruding 0,5-1mm the core ended up 2,5mm not 3 in the tip/tail areas like expected.
how do fix the core to the board???
i used some double sided tape, maybe not enough...
is there a method you recommend?
another problem i m really ashamed of... i messed up tottaly the inserts, they re 10!!! cm
displaced towards the tail....f**k i m really angry with me..
the graphics by the way, like i said, the heavy fabric with 10% black pigments in the resin. the signature is gold leaf
the whole process is shown here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/115302423609447217426/Ha2#
thx for comments and help!
specs: sintered base, triax, core: maple, abachi, ash sidewalls, triax, varnsih
177,5cm 137/106/126mm 23m radius
it s a sideall construcion via vacuum. i cut all (core and tip/tail spacer) accurately fitting or with 1mm overhang. the overlapping parts were cut and sanded off afterwards. i tried to put a topsheet on the the last layer of glass, but i didnt stick to teh ski anyway. the conclusion: there s no way to put topsheets on via vacuum. even the last layer of glass wasn t very sticky. i used as resin sicomin 8200 with 8203 hardener. friend of mine had the same problem, light fabrics were peelable like peel plys...seems its a resin problem, i ll switch next time the resin for the upper layer.
i peeled it of the light glass. the result you can see now is a very micropore surface. it s the heavy fabric (804gr/sm triaxial) just with a varnish on it. looks pretty good the rough surface, we ll see if it s just practical in snow.
also teh varnish is shit... it s basco varnish from r&g. but it isn t scratch proof at all.
could you recommend me a varnish, scratch proof, glossy, uv resistent??
there s been also trouble profiling the core. i used the method ones here described by the router bridge. semmed to work nicely but i had problem to fix the board flat on the stencil. it was always protruding 0,5-1mm the core ended up 2,5mm not 3 in the tip/tail areas like expected.
how do fix the core to the board???
i used some double sided tape, maybe not enough...
is there a method you recommend?
another problem i m really ashamed of... i messed up tottaly the inserts, they re 10!!! cm
displaced towards the tail....f**k i m really angry with me..
the graphics by the way, like i said, the heavy fabric with 10% black pigments in the resin. the signature is gold leaf
the whole process is shown here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/115302423609447217426/Ha2#
thx for comments and help!
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- Posts: 2337
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- Location: Western Mass, USA
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I think the skis look pretty good. You can also finish the of the ski with epoxy. Brush a very thin tin coat of epoxy on the top sheet, then place wax paper over that so it doesn't stick to anything. I have done this and it works ok. Be sure there are no wrinkles in the wax paper or it will show in the ski.
I would leave more material overing hanging so if anything shifts during lay up or pressing, you'll have enough material covering the core.
I don't use a vacuum press so I can't help you out on that end.
As for the inserts, never tried them. Maybe try drilling a hole for the inserts and using epoxy to secure them to the core... maybe some else in the forum has more experience with inserts can help you out.
Skis look good!
I would leave more material overing hanging so if anything shifts during lay up or pressing, you'll have enough material covering the core.
I don't use a vacuum press so I can't help you out on that end.
As for the inserts, never tried them. Maybe try drilling a hole for the inserts and using epoxy to secure them to the core... maybe some else in the forum has more experience with inserts can help you out.
Skis look good!
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
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- Posts: 132
- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:13 am
- Location: germany
after one day in various snow conditions, the ski turned out to be a really rockable fun machine. surfing powder, it floats like no other ski i tried before. the sidecut allows accaptable rides even on hardpack stuff and slopes. the softness of the ski is very forgiving mistakes.
turned out to be a much better ski than expected
i had no problems with snow sticking to the surface... but it was mostly wet snow, not freezing
...i ride linken pro bindings on them. i tried a rottefella ntn first time ever 2 days ago on a k2 world telemark, but i had lots of problem with the scarpa tx boots, too long but too narrow for my feet, very uncomfortable. i ll stay with 75mm standard...just by the way;)
turned out to be a much better ski than expected
i had no problems with snow sticking to the surface... but it was mostly wet snow, not freezing
...i ride linken pro bindings on them. i tried a rottefella ntn first time ever 2 days ago on a k2 world telemark, but i had lots of problem with the scarpa tx boots, too long but too narrow for my feet, very uncomfortable. i ll stay with 75mm standard...just by the way;)
Last edited by sir.orange on Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:30 am, edited 2 times in total.
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- Posts: 132
- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:13 am
- Location: germany
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- Posts: 132
- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:13 am
- Location: germany
just one day in the snow, but already some damages:
1. the top glass layer on one ski delaminated in the tip spacer area. its only on one ski, the other ski layers stick pretty good to the abs spacers.
the glass is 2. quality, so you can see some spots where the fibers aren t layed very close. i think these spots should have been filled up with epoxy totally. it was teh ski were a breather was placed, it might have sucked out too much epoxy.
2. i had a little impact with a rock. turned out the edge had a bend, the base makes a blain, the sidewall doesn t look so good anymore.
i m going to cut out the piece of base to put in a fitting new one. the edge will be bend by hand, and maybe i rip of the top layer of both skis to add some ud carbon ribbon (to make the ski a little stiffer) and renew the top glass layer as well
1. the top glass layer on one ski delaminated in the tip spacer area. its only on one ski, the other ski layers stick pretty good to the abs spacers.
the glass is 2. quality, so you can see some spots where the fibers aren t layed very close. i think these spots should have been filled up with epoxy totally. it was teh ski were a breather was placed, it might have sucked out too much epoxy.
2. i had a little impact with a rock. turned out the edge had a bend, the base makes a blain, the sidewall doesn t look so good anymore.
i m going to cut out the piece of base to put in a fitting new one. the edge will be bend by hand, and maybe i rip of the top layer of both skis to add some ud carbon ribbon (to make the ski a little stiffer) and renew the top glass layer as well
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- Posts: 132
- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:13 am
- Location: germany