Forum Index

 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

My Edge Bender
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic     Forum Index -> Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
twizzstyle



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 2057
Location: Kenmore, Wa USA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:17 pm    Post subject: My Edge Bender Reply with quote

I need to give all credit here to the Skevik guys. I saw their edge bender in their awesome video and thought it was ingenius, so I wanted to make my own. What I made is essentially identical to theirs, with just some minor improvements for a more "finished" look.

Here is the Skevik guys' thread for reference...

http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2016

Here is a rundown of all the parts I used...

- Harbor Freight 4" drill press vice $15
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=30999
- Two rubber knobs with 1/4-20 threaded insert from McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6185k36/=4e7pst
- One rubber knob with 1/2-13 threaded insert from McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6185k47/=4e7plk
- 3 rollers machined by a local for $100 (most machine shops wanted $200-$250 to make these)
- Various bolts/washers and some scrap steel rod

First I did a little work on the vice. It had some crappy green paint that was chipping off, so I stripped all of the paint off and repainted it with black wrinkle finish. I drilled and tapped the vice with 1/4-20 holes for the bolts for the rollers.

I didn't like the floppy handle thing for opening/closing the vice, so I welded it so it was straight with the threaded rod, then used a die to cut threads onto the end of it to accept the rubber knob. This is much nicer on the hands when you're moving it in/out.

The other two knobs went on the handle crank thing, they are attached with 1/4-20 bolts just tight enough so there is no play in them, but they spin freely.

When I did some test bending, I found that once there was a lot of force on the movable jaw, it would tilt backwards since there is no guide rod. My solution was to weld in a 3/8" steel rod underneath, with a guide that slides over that that I then welded to the movable jaw. Now there is NO play in any direction, but it still slides easily forward/back. HUGE improvement to the crap $15 vice. This made it so I couldn't get to the set screw on the bottom that holds the jaw to the threaded rod, so I had to drill/tap a hole on the top to accept a new set screw.

The biggest expense was the rollers... I am determined to buy myself a nice metal lathe now, its a tool I've always wanted, and I would have much rather made these myself anyways. If anybody wants to make one of these themselves, here are the drawings I came up with for the rollers. Any good machinist should be able to turn these for you, but it'll cost you...





The tool works great, it doesn't always feed the edge through on its own but if you pull or push with your other hand while you turn the crank it goes right on through. Super easy to make fine adjustments to the radius of bend. I'm not even bothering to flame heat the edges before bending like I did when I bent by hand, I'm doing cold bends.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
twizzstyle



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 2057
Location: Kenmore, Wa USA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pictures of the bender...











Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nick



Joined: 20 Jul 2009
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sweet! Man it sucks that the most expensive part are making those wheels. Thats expensive. Very cool though.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
sammer



Joined: 19 Dec 2007
Posts: 828
Location: Fernie B.C.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome, thanks for this twizzstyle.

Now to find a machine shop. I'm pretty sure the old guy up the street has a lathe Very Happy

sam
_________________
Good scrapes just happen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Head Monkey



Joined: 17 Jul 2005
Posts: 227
Location: Carnation, WA

PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice work!
_________________
Everything I know about snowboard building: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
MonkeyCAM -- free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
webboy



Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Posts: 104
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That seriously rocks! Thanks so much for sharing, especially the drawing.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nrgboards



Joined: 04 Nov 2009
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:11 am    Post subject: My Edge Bender Reply with quote

What if you use washers of various sizes to build those rollers?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
chrismp



Joined: 13 Feb 2009
Posts: 1070
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:16 am    Post subject: Re: My Edge Bender Reply with quote

nrgboards wrote:
What if you use washers of various sizes to build those rollers?


i think someone already did that...so it should work fine.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
skidesmond



Joined: 07 Apr 2009
Posts: 2056
Location: Western Mass, USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:23 pm    Post subject: Re: My Edge Bender Reply with quote

nrgboards wrote:
What if you use washers of various sizes to build those rollers?


Washers will work. After I saw Skeviks' video w/ the edge bender I had to have one. I have been using an tube bender ($15). I cut a small groove in it to hold the edge but it was still awkward to use and the steel edges tend to twist and the teeth tend to bend out of alignment. Seemed like I needed a third hand to work it.

The Skeviks edge bender looked straight forward to make but knew I couldn't find the rolled steel bars easily. So for the hell of it I bought 3 - 1/2 x 2.5 inch bolts, 12 washers with 1 3/4in dia, 3 washers with 1 3/8 in dia. 6 - 1/2in nuts. I sandwiched the smaller washer in between 4 larger washers. Here's a pic of the how I assembled the hardware.




To see how or if it would bend I clamped 2 of the assembled bolts into my vise. Inserted a steel edge and it worked pretty good. No twisting occurred and the teeth stayed in alignment.







Cost of parts was less than $3.00. I'm going to work it into a bender like Skeviks.

Even a simple bender like the pic above made bending edges so much easier than the modified hand bender.

Twizzstyle - excellent schematic!! You made everyones life much easier.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
twizzstyle



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 2057
Location: Kenmore, Wa USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work with the washers!

It's pretty hard to justify the ~$130 cost of mine (total cost including all parts) over $3 for some bolts/washers Sad

One cool thing about mine though, it would take very little work to replace the radius adjusting knob with a stepper motor, and turn it into a CNC edge bender Cool Maybe that'll be a project for next year, for now I need to hurry up and get some skis made, the snow's already falling!

Something like this would be the result...

http://signalsnowboards.com/EDGES
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
skidesmond



Joined: 07 Apr 2009
Posts: 2056
Location: Western Mass, USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. Yeah, mine is definetly low budget/low tech and I surprised myself that it worked. I forgot to mention that one of the smaller washers is a bit thinner than the other 2 small washers. I used the thinner one for the teeth and used the thicker washer for the edge, which made for a good fit. With the washers you need to make sure they are aligned properly and bolted very tight so nothing moves when you start bending.

Now that I think of it I do know someone who is a machinist. Might have to ask for a favor.... Wink But for the time being I'll have to stick w/ the low budget option.

I'm going to pick up a vise like the one you have at TSC (Tractor Sppply Co.) so I can have a dedicated edge bender. Thanks again for the drawings, it will make it much easier to make.

No snow here yet (Mass). But I do have a pair of skis in the press right now. This will be my second attempt. Probably leave them in the press over night.... it's getting late.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
threeninethree



Joined: 23 Feb 2007
Posts: 169
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twizzstyle,
How is the main roller attached to the jaw that enables it to spin freely?
If you dont mind me asking?
_________________
~ Matt
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
twizzstyle



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 2057
Location: Kenmore, Wa USA

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

threeninethree wrote:
Twizzstyle,
How is the main roller attached to the jaw that enables it to spin freely?
If you dont mind me asking?


All of the rollers spin freely. They have a 1/4" hole drilled in the center, and then a 1/4-20 bolt going into holes I drilled/tapped in the jaws of the vice.

I have the bolts JUST tight enough so that there is no up/down play in the roller, but it still spins freely (there are washers top and bottom as well). I also put red loctite on the bolts, so they won't wiggle themselves loose.

Then the arm to turn the main roller has two bolts going into the roller, but they don't go all the way through the roller and into the jaw, since it wouldn't spin then Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
hafte



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 203

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twizzstyle, I’m working with one of the machinists here at work who has a lathe at home. He can make the parts for me, but has me wondering about some of the tolerances in your drawing. Is the .025 for the teeth to run in that tight so the tool has traction on the edge so it feeds through the rollers properly or is it that not so critical (kind of sounds like it). The edge piece I gave him to work with has teeth that are averaging .024 in thickness.

His other concern is the depth of cut for the teeth. It’s a tough to find a tool that thin that will cut that deep, so he’s going to make it in two pieces. That way he can thread the handle holes in the bottom part and I can use the handle bolts to hold it all together.

Skidesmond, How’s the washer bender doing. I may opt for that. A few $$ for washers is much better on the pocket book.

Thanks for the drawings and ideas guys. Beats the heck out of the heavy leather gloves and muscle that I have been using.

Hafte
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
twizzstyle



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 2057
Location: Kenmore, Wa USA

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so the .025" groove is just to help keep the edge from curving the wrong way, it keeps it flat after bending. I think my grooves ended up being a little wider so thats ok, but you don't want to go too wide.

A few machinists recommended to me doing it in two pieces as well, and bolting the two together, I think thats an excellent way to do it, although the guy I finally went with did it in one piece.

You can get slitting saws at .025", but you need a mill with a turntable to do that accurately.

As far as I know my rollers were all done on a lathe, no slitting saw, so they were able to make a tool narrow enough... but again, I'm not sure how much wider than the .025" it ended up being.

When it really comes down to it, you want the edge to go in there easily, without having any slop, thats all that really matters. Give the machines a short section of edge and say "make this fit with no wiggle room" Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic     Forum Index -> Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc) All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
Page 1 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group