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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:03 pm
by doughboyshredder
sammer wrote:Well I did a bit of research and 99.9% acetone will leave an oily residue that will completely evaporate in a couple days.
I also found that, according to almost all the things I read, on its own is pretty much harmless.
It is a good solvent though and will dissolve lots of things which can then be absorbed by your skin.
So ya, no more acetone wipes for my ski base or top sheet.
I will still use it to wash edges as they get bent days or weeks before layup.
As far as oils from your skin, always wear gloves when handling your base, topsheet and plastic sidewalls.
Things like wood are already oily to a certain extent so I don't think the little bit of oil from your skin will hurt that much.
After bending edges and washing with your solvent of choice wear gloves to protect them from any transfer from your hands.
I think that's all you can do.
sam
I don't really use gloves. I wash my hands before and after I touch different components. Gloves transfer more dirt and grime than clean hands.
MM, per crown even alcohol and mineral spirits can damage the flame treated molecules. I don't worry about it, cause I re flame everything.
Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:43 pm
by iggyskier
doughboyshredder wrote:
MM, per crown even alcohol and mineral spirits can damage the flame treated molecules. I don't worry about it, cause I re flame everything.
We've used acetone since I was making skis in Tacoma to clean tipspacers. Sidewalls go directly from the box to the cores.
But we were curious about it, so we called them up and as DBS states, Crown told us don't use anything. No acetone. No Mineral spirits. Nothing. That said that any of it will remove the ions created from flame treating.
They said blow anything off with an air gun, but nothing more.
Take that as you will. Never had any problems cleaning tipspacers with acetone, but know we won't be doing it anymore.
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:02 pm
by Damon
iggyskier wrote:
But we were curious about it, so we called them up and as DBS states, Crown told us don't use anything. No acetone. No Mineral spirits. Nothing. That said that any of it will remove the ions created from flame treating.
I'm not surprised by this, but I have serious doubts it will effect bonding significantly. I think an experiment is in order.
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:20 pm
by sammer
My thoughts regarding this is not all acetone is created equal.
The stuff you buy at the drugstore is quite pure.
The stuff you buy at the hardware store is a different story and can contain all kinds of impurities (eg the bottom of the barrel).
1 can might be pure but the next one you buy might be crap.
Put a few drops on a mirror let it evaporate and see whats left.
The same goes for oil from your skin,
touch the mirror with a finger.
now touch the mirror with a clean nitrile glove.
All will leave a residue but when I did it the glove left the least.
As far as solvents removing the flame treatment I believe it.
I'm sure the acetone effects the surface layer of the plastic to a certain extent.
Although I didn't before I did some reading on the subject.
From now on I'll try to keep my bases clean and use them straight from the roll!
sam
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:33 pm
by OAC
Have you tried Gin&Tonic yet?
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:35 pm
by sammer
OAC wrote:Have you tried Gin&Tonic yet?
I think that's more of a lubricant than a solvent isn't it?
sam
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:42 pm
by OAC
Yes. But I wouldn't waste it on the skis...
Personally I use air and brushes. And store the plastics away from the workshop until layup.
Plastics seems to collect all dust from the shop! My new vacuum rubber is full of dust! I have to clean it off everytime I use the vac-press. But it's alright with a wet clough (water)
Cheers
Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 2:31 pm
by sammer
back to building...
Spent a fair bit of time removing the topsheets and cherry veneer from the delam-ed skis.
When I stick base back on I'll put on a new cherry veneer and give it a few coats of urethane.
Should be lighter and no more air bubbles!
Didn't get all the veneer off but didn't want to sand away too much glass either.
You can see where the VDS is covering the aluminum binding plate.
I put a layer of VDS above and below the aluminum.
It bonded really well.
The ski top wasn't all that flat but is now as I hand sanded with a block and checked the thickness edge to edge.
sam
Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 3:41 am
by Richuk
I might be crazy, but I'm loving the distress look!
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:24 pm
by sammer
It's been a long time since I've posted here.
With crazy work schedule and ski days just not much time for building.
Got out cat skiing with
Fernie Wilderness today. About 70+cm's of light fluff.
Borrowed a pair of Armada ARG's from a local shop for the day.
I'm hooked. First time on a reverse/ reverse!
Man, I felt invincible.
Float was amazing, turning was effortless, tight trees no problem.
Landed every booter, kicker, and drop I could find
So now I know what I'm building next.
Might have to wait for some time to put together a new mold.
These skis rock but need the right snow conditions
I'll probably only ski them 4 or 5 times a year.
I've got enough skis for the other 30 or so days I get out!
I'll start a new build log once I get going!
sam
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:05 pm
by MontuckyMadman
sammer wrote:
I'm hooked. First time on a reverse/ reverse!
Man, I felt invincible.
welcome to the LIGHT!!!!!
ohhhhh feels so goooooood....drool