Ski Builders Forum

Folks
Getting set to cut some other alpine board cores in the near future. My first core was developed from another board I own, so I "cheated" there. But how do I actually measure the SCR. give an example if you could, say for a 14 SCR to keep it simple. I will be using oversized graph paper for lay out and cutting my template.

On another note, G-man I have been reading some of your other posts,I just wish I had more time to read all of them, especially good stuff. Inspiring me to get a set of skis built for next season, may need your help.
Building with pine???? HMMMM never considered, any particular kind?


By the way, what is meant when someone mentions a "mask" fiberglass?

So many questions, so little time, on the road in a hotel getting ready to hit the hay.

Thanks

Greg

Try snowCad. It will make your life a lot easier.

http://www.grafsnowboards.com/index.php?url=snoCAD-X

You can print out a template of the skis/board you design. It will even split the pattern up onto multiple sheets and print a guide so you can tape them together.

Just be careful printing from SnoCad. Some people have had issues with scale and such. After printing make sure to measure to check accuracy.

Hi Chubz,

Yes, using some sort of CAD drawing program seems to be the best way to accurately determine side-cut radius. I use TurboCad, and when I draw a ski using the tip, waist, and tail widths that I want, the program tells me what the radius of that arc is, to the 100th of an inch. I haven't used snowCad in awhile, but it may do the same. I don't design a ski based on a side-cut radius as a start point. I instead use the the tip, waist, and tail dimension I want (based on how much float I want), and the general side-cut amount I want (based on how quickly I want the ski to turn when it's placed on edge and weighted). I think that using an old ski, that you like, to make templates from is a great place to start from, especially on your first few skis. That's what I did. I clamped a favorite ski to some 1/2 inch MDF and used a pattern making bit with a bearing on it that was 1/4 inch smaller than the cutter, so that the template would end up 1/8th smaller than the pattern ski (to compensate for metal edge thickness).

I use Ponderosa Pine for my cores. Glad you find my ramblings helpful.

G-man