ON3P Skis

iggyskier · Post by **iggyskier** » Sat Jul 25, 2009 4:39 pm

threeninethree · Post by **threeninethree** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:39 am

Scott,

Saw the ad and write up in Freeskier. All I can say is, ,awesome.

Tahooda · Post by **Tahooda** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:34 pm

Hey how were the graphics done on your skis? Was the art like hand painted and then scanned into the computer and emailed to the company to get put on the top sheets or was the art done completely on the computer, i.e. photoshop?

iggyskier · Post by **iggyskier** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 9:45 pm

Tahooda wrote:Hey how were the graphics done on your skis? Was the art like hand painted and then scanned into the computer and emailed to the company to get put on the top sheets or was the art done completely on the computer, i.e. photoshop?

Everything is actually painted, then photographed and put together for printing in photoshop.

Few prints that are now topsheets....

Tahooda · Post by **Tahooda** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 9:51 pm

Ok that what I was thinking cuz they look graffiti-ish. Very cool graphics by the way. Im gonna have a friend do some art for me and try this method.

redbull · Post by **redbull** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 3:47 pm

Graphics definitely look sick. I'm just starting to look into sublimation. I hear there needs to be polyester for sublimation to work. Have you heard of this? Is this why you use PBT? We are currently using UHMW topsheet, have you heard of sublimating with UHMW? Thanks

shopvac · Post by **shopvac** » Sun Jan 10, 2010 1:29 pm

Iggy, amazing what you have done in the past year. Keep up the good work. I saw in your video that you were using 10mm wide VDS on the three different layers on your BG's. Do you like the narrow VDS ok?

iggyskier · Post by **iggyskier** » Sun Jan 10, 2010 1:38 pm

shopvac wrote:Iggy, amazing what you have done in the past year. Keep up the good work. I saw in your video that you were using 10mm wide VDS on the three different layers on your BG's. Do you like the narrow VDS ok?

It is ok. Definitely requires much more exact placement and the correct amount of epoxy to ensure it does not move.

i actually use my index finger and thumb to ride the edge during layup to ensure that it is in the correct spot. I do this for the bottom two layers. The top layer is obviously way easier.

If I could, it would be easier to use 1" stuff, but when you are doing stuff at the volume we are doing, it ends of costing your thousands more than the 10-15mm stuff, so I am fine staying on top of layup a bit more to help us with our cash flow.

Damon · Post by **Damon** » Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:17 pm

I'm glad you guys brought this up here. I didn't feel it would be appropriate to discuss on TGR - How has sidewall bonding been with the extra VDS? I'm assuming you made quite a few protos with different configurations? How was bonding with just one strip along the base?

For some reason I can't wrap my head around VDS providing extra sidewall strength. Sounds like it's been working for you guys though.

iggyskier · Post by **iggyskier** » Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:48 pm

Damon wrote:I'm glad you guys brought this up here. I didn't feel it would be appropriate to discuss on TGR - How has sidewall bonding been with the extra VDS? I'm assuming you made quite a few protos with different configurations? How was bonding with just one strip along the base?

For some reason I can't wrap my head around VDS providing extra sidewall strength. Sounds like it's been working for you guys though.

You can obviously bond them without VDS if they are flammed and sanded right. Ours come directly from crown and we have been able to bond them fine without VDS.

But we have found that the bond is better with VDS and have not had one single issue bonding UHMW sidewalls when using VDS. There is a reason ON3P, Moment, Icelantic, etc all do it. Hell - Icelantiic even has VDS between the sidewall and the core!

KevyWevy · Post by **KevyWevy** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:37 pm

shopvac wrote:Iggy, amazing what you have done in the past year. Keep up the good work. I saw in your video that you were using 10mm wide VDS on the three different layers on your BG's. Do you like the narrow VDS ok?

is there a link to said vide?

i rode a pair of icelandics at baker last season and read in their little brochure that they use vds between the core and the sidewall. i tried a little section on a f'ed up core and it did seem to help for some reason. but i think i'll just try my next core with gorilla glue between the core and sidewall like doughboy is doing. maybe i'll try the extra layers of vds though.

LifeisRiding · Post by **LifeisRiding** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 3:52 pm

yes could you please post a link to the vid!
great looking skies by the way!
reading this thread is definetly inspirational!
Thanks for posting all the pics and info

shopvac · Post by **shopvac** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:25 pm

http://www.vimeo.com/8635535

KW, what did you think of the Icelantics? I see a lot at Loveland. The construction looks really good, but they are so short.

KevyWevy · Post by **KevyWevy** » Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:46 pm

i loved them. they were pretty fat. i don't remember wich model or length, but they were kind of short (I'm 6'1" or 6'2") they were very lively for being so fat on groomed runs.

thanks for the link.

Iggy: are the 2x4's on the press just there to set the casket on so its easier to slide them in?

iggyskier · Post by **iggyskier** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:16 am

KevyWevy wrote:
Iggy: are the 2x4's on the press just there to set the casket on so its easier to slide them in?

yes. We used to prebent our edges/bases and use prebent cassettes, but with our thicker edges we've been having issues prebending, so we are now laying up flat.

So to help me get the cassette in myself, we added those, though at this point I can probably do it by myself with little issue.

Next we are redoing our whole press set up and incorporating a sliding bottom mold set up a la burton.

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