Ski Builders Forum

Hi there Ive got a question about fitting the edges.

Im about to start cutting my base and I started to think about the next step, fitting the edges.

I assume that small gaps between edge and base is an absolute no no. But how do I prevent that. The slightest little unevenity in the cut of the base would result in a little gap with the base. I know that alot of this is about how well Ive done the template. But still I would assume that getting a exact fit between edge and base would be quite hard to achive.

Is there something one can do when vaxing and preparing the base to even these out? heat or something like that.

Im just wondering now is because if it´s all in the template then I know when and where to put in the maximal effort to get it right.

Tex

You're right in thinking the quality of the template is important. If you're going to use it to rout the shape of the base, any irregularities will transfer. I'd suggest worrying most about the running length. This is what sees snow. A little gap between the edge and base on the tip or tail is not a tragedy. It will fill with epoxy when pressing or wax when tunning and shouldn't effect the ride. How do you plan on making your templates?

I made my template by printing a sno cad template, gluing it on a mdf and cutting it with a jiggsaw. There are irregularites on the edge that Ive worked to sand down but its hard to get them all. I use a 200x1x1cm mdf stick that Ive sawed on a table saw so its exactly square, I clamp it to the template and try to look for "gaps" between the te tempalate and the stick.

Ive managed to get quite alot of irregularites this way but when sanding by hand I think some vertical irregularites are starting to occure which makes it hard to know where to sand.

Most likely Ill just use a 3mm hardboard that Ive got laying around and cut it as if it was a base and then check the result before I cut the base material.

Tex

I have found a hand planer like the (Stanley 6" Surform® Pocket Plane) to be a good tool for the final shaping of your wooden router templates by hand. I cut out my hard board template a few mm wider than my paper template and then shaved down to the line. It worked great. I also pre-bent my edges to the hardboard template in order to minimize any potential damage (nicks) to the base by bending the edges.

Mark's comments are very right-on. One thing more that you can do to reduce the irregularities in your template is to make a very long 'sanding block' to touch up your template edges after cutting with a saw. I made my sanding block from a 1 1/2 inch (approx. 40mm) wide strip of 1/2 inch thick (13mm) MDF. The strip was about 40 inches (1 meter) long. I applied double-backed tape to the strip and then applied strips of 100 grit sandpaper. The sanding block conformed very nicely to the side-cut curve of my template and quickly reduced any high spots in my saw cut and left the template with a near perfect arc.

G-man

G-man wrote:One thing more that you can do to reduce the irregularities in your template is to make a very long 'sanding block' to touch up your template edges after cutting with a saw.

I do the same thing. I make my block with eased edges on the ends and set the length so I can slide a 3" belt sander belt snuggly over it. It's the "Poor Man's Belt Sander". Cut just outside your template line and sand down to it.

hey tex, in the boat building world the long stick you are using is a batten and it is an all important tool. if it is straight or at least "fair", no wobbles in it, it will bend to a beautiful curve. if you make it out of a nice piece of clear soft-wood lumber maybe 3/4" square you can tack it right to your template along your cad drawing, and use a flush trim bit on a router (maybe saw close to the line first). your edge will be as perfect as the batten...done. tip and tail still need some careful cutting and shaping, but those long subtle side-cut arcs won't need anything.
hope that helps
nate

thetradwoodboat wrote:hey tex, in the boat building world the long stick you are using is a batten and it is an all important tool. if it is straight or at least "fair", no wobbles in it, it will bend to a beautiful curve. if you make it out of a nice piece of clear soft-wood lumber maybe 3/4" square you can tack it right to your template along your cad drawing, and use a flush trim bit on a router (maybe saw close to the line first). your edge will be as perfect as the batten...done. tip and tail still need some careful cutting and shaping, but those long subtle side-cut arcs won't need anything.
hope that helps
nate

Very good idea!!! Will do that next time I cut a template!!!

As for this template I will work it with a hand planner and focus on getting it nice and smooth.

Im glad I noticed the importance of this step and it gives me confidence for the continuation of my work.

But now its time to stop making skis and start using the ones Ive got.

In a few hours Im off to Fernie for a 5 week trip!!!

Tex

Tex,a little off topic but you couldn't be coming at a better time!
snow has been falling almost everyday since x-mas.
just got in from shoveling another 15 cm's out of the drive.
sam

I have used battens a number of times building boats, always with great results. When you choose a batten make sure it doesn't have any knots or weird grain. I like to use lengths of clear vertical grain fir.

I also made a half template. When I cut the base I just flipped it over to cut the other half. This way you know each edge will be the same, and if you have to sand down any bumps you only have to do it once.

I found that getting a piece of aluminum angle and screwing it to the template and then running a flush trim bit along it will make a very smooth and accurate edge.

can you photograph that process?

i ws thinking you could go slightly below the line, then cover the perimeter with sheet aluminum or formica or something, and cutting the excess away, then use that to make another template