Ski Builders Forum

Doing an asym layup like that might get tricky. Some guys get things like twisting and or unexpected camber changes when they do stuff likd that do to uneven thermal expansion of the materials.

But I guess there is only 1 way to find out....
What about carbon top and bottom with some 45 deg Biax glass to give you some torsional rigidity? You'd still cut weight but you'd be symertrical.

My friend have the proto CT from NeverSummer and it have rocker between the feet and camber from binding to tip, I have try them and they really have great hold in the snow.

Got my cores profiles at the shop today. It seems every time I go there I drink a six pack.

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The base for my buddies shop board turned out pretty good. Guys at the Cnc shop have been cutting out vinyl stencils, and thery are comin out great lately.


Heres a nice Zone we hiked to the other day. Not to steep but the sun was out and the turns were sick
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Probably get one of these decks layer up Friday night. Till then

Very nice !

Is it a vacuum hold down you're using on the CNC ? do you mind giving more details on it (how do you isolate a "zone"...) ?

Pretty impressive base design too ! I just ordered a full roll of black Durasurf 4001 + some leftovers of other light colors as I'd like to CNC-die-cut my bases... You make me regret my choice I should have ordered clear base !

hey Ben,

The vacum table is a piece of mdf with a grid routed into it. there are 6 or 8 vacum ports on the table( a bunch of pvc piping). To isolate a zone we put weather stripping foam in the grid to cut off the size of table we need, then cover the outside remaining ports(holes) with pieces of rubber.

hope this answers your question, im no CNC expert.

yep that perfectly answers my question, thanks !
keep up the good work !

Pressed a couple boards in the last few day. As mentioned before I did 8 ounce 0/90 carbon on the bottom layer and 21 once triax basalt on top layer on the board with the subbed topsheet. It's base came out convex. I should of listened to others. different oriented materials of different composites can cure differently. I will test it out tommorow in pow and it may still rip. like a canoe haul through water. I will say it came out perfectly centered and the whole length of the base.

Next night I did another one of identical shape. This time I did the 8 ounce Carbon only.Both top and bottom.Also added a bunch of tows, stringers, and some extra vds under the inserts. Topped off with a bamboo veneer topsheet. Base came out perfect.


Also....do not try and tint your poly sidewalls with acrilyc paint or this could happen. EXPANSION FOAM DISASTER.
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Sick last couple builds man. I think pouring sidewalls is the way to go... as long as you don't try to tint them I guess haha.

What product are you using for the sidewalls and are you getting any bubbles?

pmc790, no bubbles. we are changing to a Canadian company though. beacause the pmc790 is expensive. But ya we have been tinting with polyester dyes. We tried some acrilyc paint today and the shit started turning into a spongee foam. Our new stuff i just sampled is clear, pours great, cures faster, and is cheaper.

Cool. Have you had much time on snow with them?
I used smooth-on 305 with excellent results but I had to build a pressure chamber to get rid of the bubbles.

I might start a thread on it so all the info can be found easily

yes my splitboard has held up awsome. The skiers are loving them.

Dtrain wrote:Our new stuff i just sampled is clear, pours great, cures faster, and is cheaper.

do you mind telling us what you're using now? how does it compare to the PMC-79 strength wise?

I have got a something whipped up specifically for my needs by a poly and rubber factory here in Canada. It seemed very small beans to them for me to buy 7.5 gallons for $460.00. So i would rather not say in fear they start getting phone calls by people wanting small orders all the time and then they start a minimum order or even worse.

I will say this though, it pours great. Its clear. they say it is a 90 durometer but if feels harder. which is better(i think). And full cure overnight. All the specs look great. You cannot fill the channells to accomadate the profile though as it will run to low areas. Full channel fill only. For skis this is quite a bit of waste.

The 790 comes out perfect, but a 2 day cure is not optimal for me. the amber colour is harder to tint and in Canada I have to pay $245 plus 12% tax and shipping for less than 3 gallons.

If anybody wants some of the "new" product I am placing an order in the next couple days. I will order for you if you are willing to buy 7.5 gallons. The company even said they would bottle it in multiple containers to prolong the shelf life.

How does this PU hold up to the cured strip in the freezer test,bend or snap?
Sweet lookin boards by the way.