Base ginders/belt grinders/stone grinders DIY
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
Wow, awesome. I must admit looking at the pictures at first I was skeptical, but then I got to the base shots. Looks outstanding! You might consider building a steel frame for it down the road just to make it last longer.
No liquid cooling I take it. The metal structure would allow some liquid cooling too (you wouldn't want all that wood getting wet)
Nice work!
No liquid cooling I take it. The metal structure would allow some liquid cooling too (you wouldn't want all that wood getting wet)
Nice work!
twizzstyle, tahnks
i trade it with your red one plus a makita thicknesser anytime
under one term:
you send me your ear defenders too, you would'n need them anymore anyway!
LOL
you are right, steel is the way to go with it
i have something in mind to allow wet sanding on that ply frame, not sure it will work
when wet sanding you use 80 ~120grit alu oxide? or you can go finer?
btw you auto feed construction is amazing
i trade it with your red one plus a makita thicknesser anytime
under one term:
you send me your ear defenders too, you would'n need them anymore anyway!
LOL
you are right, steel is the way to go with it
i have something in mind to allow wet sanding on that ply frame, not sure it will work
when wet sanding you use 80 ~120grit alu oxide? or you can go finer?
btw you auto feed construction is amazing
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
Suggestion for a cheap homemade grinder
I was thinking how a cheap homemade belt grinder could be made and came up with this suggestion.
Parts would consist of:
2 conveyor rollers ($20 on ebay for used ones)
Base plate (MDF or whatever)
Mounting brackets (Made out of MDF or metal)
4 Bearings
2 steel rods as axles
2 steel rods for band tensioning
2 springs
Metal support plate behind belt
Custom belt from previously mentioned suppliers
And some small parts (Bolts and stuff)
Your existing powerful drill as engine
You could pretty much do it for sub $100
I haven't incorporated water cooling but if you want a mess you can just spray some on there.
Tell me if it seems completely stupid. Will the drill engine burn?
Parts would consist of:
2 conveyor rollers ($20 on ebay for used ones)
Base plate (MDF or whatever)
Mounting brackets (Made out of MDF or metal)
4 Bearings
2 steel rods as axles
2 steel rods for band tensioning
2 springs
Metal support plate behind belt
Custom belt from previously mentioned suppliers
And some small parts (Bolts and stuff)
Your existing powerful drill as engine
You could pretty much do it for sub $100
I haven't incorporated water cooling but if you want a mess you can just spray some on there.
Tell me if it seems completely stupid. Will the drill engine burn?
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
Havn't really thought about belt changingMontuckyMadman wrote:
I have a high torque motor but I am confused on the belt tensioning method described here for easy belt changing.
I guess the support plate behind the belt has to be quite sturdy as well since it can only be supported on one side if the belts are to be changed.
I also saw these extension springs the other day and thought they may be another idea for the tensioning
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
gladegp, 2-3 grinders i ve seen have a avarage belt speed of about 65km/h
you might want to check the revs of the drill to the driving roller perimeter
the conveyor rollers will be spinning quite fast (probably more than 2000rpms) so maybe you ll have to balance them
last month i balanced (it wasn't really needed, i just was curious) the ply drum i made, with the help of 4 skateboard bearings
i was surprised how sensitive this was
i could trace the weight of an M6 nut (2.2grams) taped at the drums perimeter (balancing end up with screwing 2 M8*15mm bolts to the sides, 4cm inwards the perimeter)
funny, the feeding rollers in my sander look very much like your tensioning design
springs are 8 cm long, from an old desining desk lamp
off topic, yesterday i profiled 2 poplar/maple ski cores using 36grit alu oxide paper
fast and accurate
you might want to check the revs of the drill to the driving roller perimeter
the conveyor rollers will be spinning quite fast (probably more than 2000rpms) so maybe you ll have to balance them
last month i balanced (it wasn't really needed, i just was curious) the ply drum i made, with the help of 4 skateboard bearings
i was surprised how sensitive this was
i could trace the weight of an M6 nut (2.2grams) taped at the drums perimeter (balancing end up with screwing 2 M8*15mm bolts to the sides, 4cm inwards the perimeter)
funny, the feeding rollers in my sander look very much like your tensioning design
springs are 8 cm long, from an old desining desk lamp
off topic, yesterday i profiled 2 poplar/maple ski cores using 36grit alu oxide paper
fast and accurate
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
wtf???? group hug time!Brazen wrote:as always...bs. Easy to find <2k, simpler to build for <1k. But I'm glad you solved your problem though after squeezing everyone here for yet another idea you'll do nothing with.
congrats on the grinder MM (if you end up buying it). 6" will be ok for most things you do, you'll love it.
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
There are 4 on the market all grindrites right now all right at 2k. Justcausd you found one for 1500 doesnt mean they are all around and btw 1500 mine as well be 2k.Brazen wrote:as always...bs. Easy to find <2k, simpler to build for <1k. But I'm glad you solved your problem though after squeezing everyone here for yet another idea you'll do nothing with.
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA