sidewall and planing to profile

Brazen · Post by **Brazen** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:36 pm

Hmmpphhh. Wood is a PITA for the end user.

teleman36 · Post by **teleman36** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:07 pm

I may have posted this before but this method has worked great for me. I make up sidewall assemblies that are aprox. 30 mm wide by whatever length is called for. Sand with 60 to 80 grit alum oxide belt sander. Flame treat. Epoxy to 5mm by 30 mm ash strip with vds in between wood and PE. Usually make up about 20 to 30 of these units at a time, and then just wood glue them to the sidecut shaped core. Plane flat then resaw to get a nice bookmatched set of cores. Cores are double sided taped and hotglued at the ends to the dedicated planer crib. Small strips of wood are hotglued next to the core and extend longer than the core to catch the planer feed rolls. I do not have to have vallium or beer nearby when profiling cores anymore. Good Luck.

richie · Post by **richie** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 1:11 am

Hi fella's. My experience so far has been great, simple 3 layer wooden sidewalls made of ash, the first set of ski's I ever built did 30 days straight in the mountains touring and are good as gold still, without even a chance to waterproof them before they were on the snow as they were built in a mega hurry. So I built 2 splitboards with ash sidewalls too and they too have been solid as this season.

Still my plans were to try polyurethane and I am tempted to bite the bullet now in my next splitboard. I need to test the adhesion of raw polyurethane resin onto timber but I am confident it should be good - polyurethane glue sticks well eh! How well epoxy top and bottom bonds to it I will have to see also, thats the beauty of a timber sidewall the glue sticks!

Will keep you posted on how this goes.

cheers
Rich

Richuk · Post by **Richuk** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 2:19 am

Yep - wood is great, steamed beech has been the wood of choice to-date, but like Brazen said, the end user has yet to be convinced.

Thanks for the tips teleman - the belt sander will creates those little hairs I was thinking about! Still left wondering about grit levels - why the great disparity between us and the commercial manufacturers?

Richie - Chrisp has done a lot of work on polyu and can probably provide great recommendations.

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 2:38 pm

any one seen this years legend pros? Wood sidewalls and they appear untreated and rough.
They say its marine grade. Tough for me with limited wood knowledge to tell what it is. Its kinda reddish. This is in NA dont know what they put in shops around the globe.

This is of course a comp level stiff ski with double metal top and bottom. and Heavy!

Richuk · Post by **Richuk** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 3:43 pm

http://www.epicski.com/products/2012-dy ... er-105-ski

'The double Melamine/Phenol sidewalls ensure flexibility and power according to the skier's needs in the different phases of the turn'.

The photo's I have seen shows beading, so I would suggest (finger in the air) its impregnated or even densified wood. We don't have this industry in the UK any more. Couldn't find it in Europe. It is available in the US.

If you start with the search term 'compreg' and work forward from the 1940's you'll get a better idea of what it could be.

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui ... sequence=1

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=gN8D ... ic&f=false

The initial results from the vacuum using a methly mathacrylate were poor - so I ditched the idea.

This document outlines the remaining options:

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf20 ... ach002.pdf

So .... how long before all the commercial manufacturers switch to veneer and call it a revolution in green technology!

MontuckyMadman · Post by **MontuckyMadman** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:59 pm

^^^is this in reference to the Dynastars?
Confusing post, at least for me.

Richuk · Post by **Richuk** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 2:36 am

updated for you MM, sorry for my english ... ; )

OAC · Post by **OAC** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:36 am

Good sidewall woods(in my book):

1. Oak
2. Cedar - con: kind of rough finish when routed
3. Ash - not as good as Oak

Teak should be the best, but it's difficult to glue.

SHIF · Post by **SHIF** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 12:28 pm

I've had excellent results using Massaranduba for sidewalls. Also known as Brazilian redwood, this material has very tight and straight grain and is hydrophobic, it does not absorb moisture. It is commonly used as outdoor decking. It does not require finishing, you can leave it bare, however it takes wood stain well if you want to make it look black.
Another good choice might be Ipe (pronounced e-pay) although I have not used it.

Here is a good source for info on such wood species:
http://www.floormall.com/janka-rating-wood-species/

-S

OAC · Post by **OAC** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:01 pm

Is it "oil-free"? I'm just concerned about the glueing abilities. But you have tried it and it worked... :-)

SHIF · Post by **SHIF** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:12 pm

OAC wrote:Is it "oil-free"? I'm just concerned about the glueing abilities. But you have tried it and it worked... :-)

Massaranduba does not soak-up moisture and it is NOT oily. It bonds very well to my bamboo cores using Titebond wood glue, as shown in some of my photos in my www link.

-S

falls · Post by **falls** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:02 pm

can you get ipe on e-bay?

SHIF · Post by **SHIF** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:54 pm

No way.

sammer · Post by **sammer** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:07 pm

I'm still a maple sidewall fan.
The first pair that I built using maple and boiled linseed oil are still looking new after 3 seasons and I've never reapplied the oil.

2 pair from last season with maple were left untreated and are still OK although looking a little grayer with age.
This year I gave one of them a quick sand and a coat of oil and they look like new.

sam

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