Ski Builders Forum

on bigger/ longer stuff warpage of the base is a big deal, you have to edge to a template. Might not matter for weenie boards.

Works for 168cm snowboards too but yeah, I remember reading that in here. Cassette

falls wrote:The only thing I don't get doing it so you can see the fit is that you can't clamp the ptex/edges to the template at you go (?), unless you are applying the glue to the edge then pushing it against the base and clamping it down. This leaves you open to bendy ptex problems, right?

Yea Falls.... My last 2 pair I used my template (taped the ptex base to template, routed base, applied edges tines up while base attached to template) like you do to keep the ptex from warping since I may not press the same day (or week). It keeps everything symmetrical. So in order to glue w/ tines facing down and base up, it presents another challenge.

do you need wall to wall tape or can you leave a smidgen to slide the tines under?

On one I used a strip of double stick tape down the length of the template, which was a mistake because the double stick tape was a real pita to take off the base. On the other one I used just 4 pieces on each base. I've since bought removable double sided stick tape. Anyhow, no it doesn't have to be edge to edge. I'm worried about the super glue leaking onto the template and sticking the template and base together and/or pulling a piece of the template off since it's MDF. I suppose I could slip parchment paper in between the base and template.

What we really need is templates that have small holes in them all the way along the length just in from the edge. Maybe thin perpex, or perhaps aluminium/steel. You could even rebate around the edge of the template for the edge teeth just like you do for a core (Perhaps have one template for routering and one with the rebate and holes? On same template and you just flip it over to the side with the rebate). Then you could clamp all the way along (taking care not to obscure your glue holes) and observe edge fit as you clamp. Finally use the holes as windows to apply the glue through. Allow to set and voila (that's french for voila) you're good to go.

Desmond: you sound sorted with the removeable tape, but what I have also done is used brown masking tape then applied the double stick tape to this. The brown masking tape is strong enough for the routing process but comes off ok when you need to peel the base from the template and peel the brown masking tape off the base (actually packing tape, the stuff they put on carboard boxes).
I use this method when routing my cores to shape using my MDF template.

doing it tines under has cut my edgeing time in half and improved the edge fit to the base to near richuk standards.

I am literally kicking myself.

Me too! Did my second pair yesterday...I'm blue all over (after kicking)

falls wrote:Desmond: you sound sorted with the removeable tape, but what I have also done is used brown masking tape then applied the double stick tape to this. The brown masking tape is strong enough for the routing process but comes off ok when you need to peel the base from the template and peel the brown masking tape off the base (actually packing tape, the stuff they put on carboard boxes).
I use this method when routing my cores to shape using my MDF template.

Falls - Thanks for the tip! The double stick tape I used comes off the template ok, but was a real pain to get off the base. I'll give your way a try, such a simple solution.

Thanks for the tip, tried it today. Nice tight edge to bases!!

It still seems wrong to me. Not sure why, but it seems wrong. are the tines getting as tight to the base as they should be? I know the edge extension is getting tight to the side of the base, but if any glue starts to harden before the tine is clamped to the base then you'll have a little spot of base high right there. Hmmm.

Not if you have chosen the right CA/adhesive DBS

COsurfer wrote:Thanks for the tip, tried it today. Nice tight edge to bases!!

Just want to point out that your edge is not bent well in this pic. That lest section of edge needing to pushed in to make contact with the base is a no-no. The tension created there will make that section of edge susceptible to pulling out if impacted hard. The glue shouldn't be necessary to maintain the shape of the edge.