Ski Builders Forum

haha on full sized stuff too. They come out exact, die-punch press would be ideal though. Next year. The cassette seems to work perfectly with regard to consistency.

Perm peel tape will solve your issue OAC and save your fingers : )

Ok, do you have any good source? The one's I have seen just collect dust...

I think so : )

http://www.tape2go.com/Product/3222-Per ... d-Tape/101

Cost me £5.58 inc postage - shout if they don't do international and I will organise for you. Alt, if you want a few metres to check against what is available locally, can do.

Btw - base photo?

Richuk wrote: Btw - base photo?

?

...and yes, not outside Britain or Ireland...

Brazen wrote:haha on full sized stuff too. They come out exact, die-punch press would be ideal though. Next year. The cassette seems to work perfectly with regard to consistency.

So, you're using a cassette? Like I said, a cassette solves the problem. The problem comes from pressing without a cassette.

Are cassette are the best solution? They're not the only solution. The problem lies in how the edges are attached. If you glue them on all the way round before they hit the press (no gaps between the base and the edge set), then I don't see any issues. You don't glue the tang.

This route gives you the option to prototype to your hearts desire before finally making a cassette. Arguably, you don't need a full cassette, even when you have hit your final shape, which means you can spend more time making and less time cleaning your cassette.

OAC - in the post tomorrow. Pictures of the tips, base side up, wanted to see how the tip moulds were working out. Guessing you've got a great results : )

^

What Richuk said. I have made MANY prototypes without a cassette (of course) and still never had an issue with base warp. Maybe there's a little more concern over the exact edge bending instead of "hell, the glue will hold it" though. Maybe that's the problem. And o, btw...the cassette cleaning takes like 2 minutes. Srsly.

Richuk wrote: You don't glue the tang.

???
I routinely have no idea what you are saying on here? How is this possible?

Don't glue salt water reef fish onto your ski is what I got. Makes sense.

I think DBS works to ultra fine tolerance, so he notices any anomaly. I suspect you get less of an issue with skis and even less when being made in a cool climate.

Brazen you must have found some great mould release

MM, I'll send you a few photo's the next time I do it.

I'm just using Partall 2.

I've been using Meguiar's - have yet to glue everything down, hence the cleaning issues.

I'm having a tough time getting things super symmetrical. Right now I'm trying to cut my bases using only one side of my template. As good as I have gotten at shaping my template I know that it is not symmetrical enough. So I have been marking the bases for longitudinal center as well as tip/waist and tail. Then I cut one side, flip the base over, match the marks and cut again. Simple right...

Well I guess not as It seems I can get things straight. One base will come out perfect but them when the second if cut and I match them up they are off a bit. It is getting frustrating to say the least.

Short of having my template CNC cut does anyone have any tips on keeping things straight?

I'm using a router, I'm letting my bases relax a bit before cutting, I'm using spring clamps to hold the base down and double checking that I don't have a bubble in there anywhere and marking as accurately as I can.

Help....