Lifting the bottom creates a flat bed press below the mould. This comes in handy thinking about dye sublimation or treating the core etc. If the bottom mould isn't too thick, it will flex. Camber can be created using shims - as described by those crazy flying Fins! This last point saves a lot of time.
Hinge on end of the mould and lift using a small bottle jack. You might end up being around 3mm from level over a length of around 2 meters - depending on the materials you use.
Good luck with the press!
bladders, bags and pressure
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
I'm with you twizz
Having space so the hose leaves the end of the molds able to bend around the tip curve is really important, rather than the hose striking the top of the press and causing a situation where the hose just wants to go in a straight line
Iggy's presses in the 2nd year (?) changed to having the molds on the bottom deck and upper form shimmed down towards them. Not sure if it was for the reason we are discussing, but in the picture above there is plenty of space for the hose to come out of the end of the molds at the angle the molds want it to be in
vs my press
where you see the hose strike the top of the press too early for my liking (I really need to fix it!)
Having space so the hose leaves the end of the molds able to bend around the tip curve is really important, rather than the hose striking the top of the press and causing a situation where the hose just wants to go in a straight line
Iggy's presses in the 2nd year (?) changed to having the molds on the bottom deck and upper form shimmed down towards them. Not sure if it was for the reason we are discussing, but in the picture above there is plenty of space for the hose to come out of the end of the molds at the angle the molds want it to be in
vs my press
where you see the hose strike the top of the press too early for my liking (I really need to fix it!)
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....