"you building what? Are you mad?"

MadRussian · Post by **MadRussian** » Mon Nov 17, 2014 3:05 pm

ski finished in 7--10 days will be ready for binding and first base sanding.

MadRussian · Post by **MadRussian** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:31 am

I got a small problem. Whatever I did for cleaning and preparing surface for PU topcoat this time got some grainy surface from dust getting into the topcoat. More noticeable on last pair because I'm doing only two PU coats. What's the best way to take care of this problem?

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 12:06 pm

Buff out the top carefully with 220 grit or 0000 steel wool. Apply another thin coat of PU. Thinner coats dry quicker.

MadRussian · Post by **MadRussian** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 12:26 pm

I did that between first and second. second coat was very thin, surface was clean relatively well and still got particles in afterwards

gav wa · Post by **gav wa** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:21 pm

Once it is hard you can cut and buff just like it is a car. I've done this to all my gloss finish boards. Start with about 200 grit, sand till smooth, then 400, then 800. You can go to 1200 grit or just buff after 800 with a medium cut paste.
They come out like a layer of glass, especially the pu.

MadRussian · Post by **MadRussian** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:35 pm

gav wa wrote:Once it is hard you can cut and buff just like it is a car. I've done this to all my gloss finish boards. Start with about 200 grit, sand till smooth, then 400, then 800. You can go to 1200 grit or just buff after 800 with a medium cut paste.
They come out like a layer of glass, especially the pu.

this part I need some help. by hand or with a buffer?

vinman · Post by **vinman** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:39 pm

I get this problem when I use cheap brushes. Make sure to pull out loose fibers with your fingers quickly sweep the brush with your hand s few times to get rid of any loose stuff in the brush.

gav wa · Post by **gav wa** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:04 pm

Yeah you will need an electric buff. You can do by hand but it takes a lot longer. If I was doing by hand I would go all the way to 1200 grit. It shouldn't take as long then to buff to a good shine.
Also a handy way to get less brush hairs in a coat is to hold a piece of good tape upside down and mash the brush into it. Any loose hairs will get pulled out and stick to the tape rather than end up in your job.

MadRussian · Post by **MadRussian** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:29 pm

in my case it is not brushed her. btw good idea with a tape.
I got bury small dust like particles.
I got wet sending done. now I need to figure out which compound to use....it so many of them out there

gav wa · Post by **gav wa** » Thu Nov 20, 2014 4:08 am

just use a car medium cutting polish, like the meguiars medium cut cleaner. The meguiars stuff breaks down as you use it so it actually ends up giving it a fine polish at the same time. I've used it on a couple of cars before and also two boards. It actually works better on boards than cars

The finish can still be improved on by then using a proper finishing compound though. It's not necessary, but I guess it depends on how much of a full on shine you want.

MadRussian · Post by **MadRussian** » Thu Nov 20, 2014 4:14 am

gav wa wrote:just use a car medium cutting polish, like the meguiars medium cut cleaner. Then if you want a really high gloss you can also use the fine grade stuff like you would normally use just to give a car a normal wax/polish job.

thx
I don't do this kind of stuff on the cars lol

skidesmond · Post by **skidesmond** » Thu Nov 20, 2014 4:31 am

If you want to build up your triceps buff it out by hand

I use a power buffer and a rubbing compound that you can buy at the automotive store. I also dampen the pad with water to get a slight slurry mix and keep a spray bottle handy if the slurry starts to dry out. That slurry mix of compound and PU helps buff it out.

MadRussian · Post by **MadRussian** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 12:12 pm

forget about buffing this stuff by hand wax on wax off.
Luckily I have low RPM 7" sender and harbor freight tools have surprisingly decent quality buffing pads relatively inexpensive. Now I have little experience doing buffing. Best way and probably fastest to get good results use three different compounds Maguires diamond cut or #10 on there scale, medium cut #5 and Final Cut or finish #2 or 3 with three different pads

great video to to learn how to do it

MadRussian · Post by **MadRussian** » Sat May 23, 2015 4:31 pm

Not much ski building recently. Mostly shop improvements and skiing.

Just picked up bandsaw up-great.... couldn't pass by this beauty 16" DoAll with 12 inch capacity for resawing. Serious power to 3 hp three-phase 220 with mechanical variable speed controller. 10' blade instead of 92 inches in my old Delta. Couldn't test it before buying hopefully everything worked fine

richie · Post by **richie** » Sat May 23, 2015 7:13 pm

MadRussian wrote:Not much ski building recently. Mostly shop improvements and skiing.

Just picked up bandsaw up-great.... couldn't pass by this beauty 16" DoAll with 12 inch capacity for resawing. Serious power to 3 hp three-phase 220 with mechanical variable speed controller. 10' blade instead of 92 inches in my old Delta. Couldn't test it before buying hopefully everything worked fine

A good bandsaw is so handy and these old ones are way more solid than the new chinese made ones I think, mainly due to the big cast bodies. I upgraded my old girl to some bearing blade guides and that took it to another level again.

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