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Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 12:59 pm
by deepskis
Hmm this got me thinking...
I used another scale and my old scale was completely wrong. Not good because I have been using that when mixing my epoxy. Have to buy a new one!! The correct weight is 1625g. It was to good to be true
Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 7:30 am
by sammer
I was wondering about that weight too.
My skis all come in at about 2kg each.
They are quite a bit bigger (length and width) but not twice as big.
sam
Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 11:55 am
by vinman
I'm in the same range as Sam. ~4.25-4.5 lbs (~2kg give or take a little) for a ski in the 183-185 range at 107-110 under foot.
Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 1:27 pm
by deepskis
Bought a new scale today...
The weight of the Carver Pink is 1665g and the Carver Sweden 1995g.
This means there is still room for some more experimental stuff inside the Race Carver...
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:00 am
by deepskis
New design.
145-100-125
1760
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:03 am
by twizzstyle
Those look pro! Fantastic job!
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:04 am
by deepskis
twizzstyle wrote:Those look pro! Fantastic job!
Thanks Twizz
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 2:32 pm
by skidesmond
Wow, they look fantastic!
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 2:26 am
by deepskis
skidesmond wrote:Wow, they look fantastic!
Thanks Skidesmond
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 2:30 am
by deepskis
Question..
I have had some problems with topsheet shifting. What do you guys do to prevent that?
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:18 am
by skidesmond
No real magic to it. I will use some tape and tape the excess part of the top sheet down to the cassette in a couple spots or use tape to hold the layup together. Just be sure the tape is on the flashing so it gets cut off in the finishing stage. Also you don't want to have too much epoxy resin to cause the top sheet to slide around. If you're using a pneumatic press, pressurize it slowly so things don't shift.
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 4:35 am
by knightsofnii
i refuse to make graphics with any type of perimeter work that has to be precise with respect to any edge. Pretty much also given up on twin tip type mirrored graphics. the more random it is, the less one notices any shift or loss of anything important.
Still have to align the topsheet, but I plan ahead for shifting and make graphics that dont care about it
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 8:18 am
by twizzstyle
knightsofnii wrote:i refuse to make graphics with any type of perimeter work that has to be precise with respect to any edge.
That's my philosophy too. I make a center mark on my topsheets so at least they line up between the two skis, but I never do anything that I would care too much if it shifted.
Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 8:57 am
by knightsofnii
if you dont wanna build casettes, then center mark everything length and width wise,
and I'm going to try a lazer level type thing from the ceiling.
we lose a lot of time trying to center stuff, but dont make enough of the same board to warrant any kind of casette registry stuff, especially when building protos, etc.