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Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:48 pm
by ggardner90
what size kevlar thread are you using in that picture. i just ordered some with the 23 lbs tensile strength i think that will be enough to make our edges bomb proof. i also ordered a small quantity of 80 lbs strength kevlar thread just in case. i really think that this will be the way to go
as always you guys ROCK......Thanks
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 6:42 am
by ggardner90
so i cant sleep i am thinking about the kevlar stuff so much. do any of you think that lacing the kevlar tread through the edge will cause any sort of delam issue with the above fiberglass layer because of the irregularities.
also how strong do you think that the kevlar thread needs to be?
Size 23-21 - 6 Lbs. (strength) - 0.0060 In (Dia.)
Size 44 - 40 - 14 Lbs. - 0.0081 In.
Size 69 - 60 -23 Lbs. - 0.0099 In.
i was thinking about going more towards the middle one but i just dont know how much strength i should get
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 1:53 pm
by Richuk
I don't think many people have tried this to be honest. GFY for getting the detail together, unfortunately is doesn't correspond with what I have to hand ... 35 grams per metre. Quite coarse, I don't remember there being any issues
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 4:55 pm
by MontuckyMadman
I use some very fine kevlar thread for tying fishing flys and it will cut though your finger before it breaks. It is incredably strong.
Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:46 am
by neatturns
On a 3/4 wrap how are you finishing the ends when there is not steel edge to follow?
thanks
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 2:06 am
by ggardner90
havent actually made the 3/4 wrap ski but i expect it to be a very careful process. you will still have the base cut ahead of time.
but i am thinking of a jig saw with sharp blade
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 8:10 am
by twizzstyle
You don't have to have the base shape cut ahead of time if you don't want. Just draw the shape on afterwards, print it off and tape it on, whatever. Cut it with a jig or band saw, then sand it nice and smooth. Not hard to get near perfect results, and it's not critical to the ski's performance so it's no biggy if you hose it up completely (you'll just have goofy looking skis)
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 11:41 am
by rockaukum
Goofy is good! I have done both precut and drawn on after. Either way you will need to clean them up. Be unique with your ideas. Just make sure you will be able to attach your skins to them!
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