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Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 5:15 pm
by Huck Pitueee
GENIUS !!!
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 7:42 pm
by ggardner90
i am trying to develop a sustainable process so repeatability is key for me. i did a test with the 3/4in bit on a 1/2in shank and it made a huge difference. still had to be really careful around the tips but all is well in the world
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 8:23 pm
by falls
careful around the tips normal cutting? or careful when climb cutting?
jellyfish:
I do the same - brass bushing and 1/4 inch straight router bit.
Use my base material template so it creates about a 4mm offset that covers the edges plus 2mm overhang.
I have still had some tear-out going around the tips (cutting in the normal direction, handheld router not a table) and occasionally along the sidecut - I think especially when you strike a join in the laminates at just the right angle and the router bit tries to burrow inbetween the laminated layers.
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:08 pm
by ggardner90
carefull when climb cutting, just busted out 3 cores with no issues. had a couple close calls when i lost focus. but over all i think the bigger bit and climb cutting is the way to go
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 2:54 pm
by jellyfish
I cannot remember all the different bushings and router bit combinations off hand but like you I have a system of a sort that is built around a template for the board. If you can finance it multiple routers set up for different jobs is convienent.
Cheers
Jim
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:59 pm
by ggardner90
i agree i currently have 1 router on table 2hp 1/2in collet and 1 router on core bridge only 1/4in 1hp or something but it gets the job done. thinking about another one so that we could have two router tables set up so me and a homie could get 2 cores at once but that is in the future
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:39 am
by knightsofnii
you referring to cutting the shape(sidecut and tips) or the profile?
If its the shape, its cuz your bit is smacking the grains and ripping them apart, any bit will do this to some degree.
Go "forward" with your cut (cutting counter-clockwise around the board if looking down upon it) until you get to the very tip, stop. Go and do the same to the other side starting at the rail and moving to the tip and come off at the tip. You should have done all but the two opposing corners in upper left and lower right, cut these corners backwards or clockwise, climb cutting like others have mentioned. You'll still probably chip here or there but it shouldnt' take massive chunks any more.
Right you're using template with fixed router. Just cut the parts you're having trouble with in the opposite direction, should reduce the problem.
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:00 am
by ben_mtl
Another thing I found very useful to avoid this chipping is to pre-cut the core on a bandsaw (or jigsaw). I just trace the contour of the template on my "square" core with a sharpie, then cut it on the bandsaw leaving as little wood as I can to be cut with the router... It's not that time consuming and I found I can go ways faster with the router next.
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:04 am
by ggardner90
yea i have beeen pre cuttting with the bands saw. i find that it is less total time and i can be much faster with the router and it doesn't wear out my bit as fast