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Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:15 pm
by Brazen
Loctite super glue.

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:49 pm
by twizzstyle
CA= cyanoacrylate. That's just the real name of super glue, any name brand is fine, if you look at the bottle you'll see cyanoacrylate on it somewhere. Liquid bandaid stuff is the same thing. Handy to have in your shop just to stop bleeding if nothing else!

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:35 pm
by Brazen
haha I can only imagine with your projects :D. Seriously though. Loctite. Best you can use for this. I have tried SO many others...

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 9:06 pm
by falls
if you wanted to get really serious you could dovetail joint your sidewalls onto the core. or you could use loctite

Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:15 am
by neatturns
Thank-you everybody, I will give this a try.

Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 7:02 am
by twizzstyle
People are actually using CA to glue their sidewalls on?? This is the first I've heard of it. I would think the vibration from the planer would break the bond instantly. CA is seriously brittle. ???

Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 7:43 am
by chrismp
my testing yielded the best results with polyurethane glue...it really depends on your planer and proper set up if you're able to plane with sidewalls on. i used to have access to a large industrial planer, but the beast would chew our sidewalls up every single time. it was even hard to hold the core down to the crib.
now i use a small portable delta 22-560 planer and it works like a charm, even with sidewalls on. i don't even need glue or tape to hold the core down. a couple drops of hotglue along the sides to keep it from sliding on the crib do the trick.

Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 3:16 pm
by agiocochook
I tried adapting the "moat method" (described in the how-to for epoxy sidewalls) to ABS as a way of having an all wood core with a full ABS sidewall. I also hoped this would allow me to use square core pieces during lay-up. It went great through profiling (with a planer), but when I tried pressing the core into a mold, the ABS separated from the wood, though only at the tips and only along the outside edge of the ABS -- between the ABS and the excess core material. Not a problem so long as you trust it all to re-seat itself once pushed all the way into the mold, but that seems a little risky....also not a problem if you're going to cut the core pieces to shape before lay-up. The areas where the bond failed, would all be cut away. I should add that the ABS was only prepared for bonding on one side, which I put to the inside. So, it might not have failed at all if both sides of the ABS were prepped.

I'm going to try leaving a very thin floor to the moat on the flat (base) side of the core to better hold everything in place. That means there'll be a thin layer of core material between the ABS and the edges after trimming, but I'm hoping it'll be thin enough to saturate with epoxy during the pressing and, once cured, be impermeable to moisture.

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:00 pm
by neatturns
When planing cores, can having to wide of sidewalls be a reason that the sidewalls detach from the wood core when planing?

thanks

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 11:48 pm
by Idris
neatturns wrote:When planing cores, can having to wide of sidewalls be a reason that the sidewalls detach from the wood core when planing?

thanks
errr.. NO

if the sidewall material disagrees with your planer the wider the tougher to plane, but shouldn't make any difference 4mm vs 4cm for adhesion

Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 7:04 am
by neatturns
Is there a company that will put abs sidewalls on my planed wood cores for me?

thanks

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 2:47 pm
by Richuk
The process for bond PE appears to be sand with an 80 grit (generally speaking), flame treat and bond. If base material is micro-sanded, why 80 grit? I'm assuming the type of grit on the paper matters too - you don't just want groves to increase surface area, but little tears too?

Also, once the PE sidewall has been attached, has anyone tried shaped the tip to an arrow point before attaching it to the sled?

Hopefully my planner will behave well, as this appears to be a large part of the puzzle : )

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 3:25 pm
by vinman
Good sharp blades and a properly aligned indeed table help a lot.

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:56 pm
by neatturns
I have never been so frustrated on trying to keep the sidewalls on during planing. I have tried every glue, sanded and flame treated. Even went and used a friends planer that had brand new blades on it, since mine did not seem to work either. I can plane the wood cores just fine. Isn't there a company that will attach and plane the sidewalls if I had the cores ready?

thanks for your help.

Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:28 pm
by doughboyshredder
wood sidewalls. end of story. F*&k planing with ptex or abs sidewalls.