Ski Builders Forum

I just use one of these:



With a normal nozzle.

I don't think bases are as big of an issue as sidewalls are. I think that the sidewalls take more initial abuse while the flash is cut off, and they have a smaller surface area, so a small area of poorly treated material can cause a problem where it maybe wouldn't on a base.

so you dont bother with bases or topsheets? thats what initially came to mind because I am relying on crown's treatment.

I flame treat everything except for fleece backed top sheet material.

Bases, sidewalls, and tip spacers.

I do the same DBS and agree! I have had the smallest bit of glue on top of the ptex cause delam. I can only imagine how much contamination happens between their treatment and our layups. For the nominal amount of time it takes, it is worth it.

...and just a little awareness for newcomers: It's flametreatment not burn treatment (which I 've done a couple of times...and it dosen't help )

I've often wondered about this....

So, if you are flood coating your bases, how does the flood coat affect the flame-treatment of the UHMW?

Assuming you're using an expoyable catalyst in the flood coat ink, does the flame treatment allow the ink to adhere to the base, then the epoxy adheres to the ink? Or does the epoxy infiltrate the ink and adhere to the base, which is why you should flame treat it?

I've never really understood how that works.

screen printed bases are done with an epoxy based ink. So the ink bonds to the flame treated plastic and then the epoxy in the layup bonds to the epoxy based ink. Same for sublimated bases with a flood coat, the flood coat is epoxy based and will adhere to the treated plastic.
if you're flood coating yourself you should flame treat before you flood coat.
epoxy bonds well to epoxy based ink, the weakest bond will be the plastic to the ink hence the need to abrade and flame prior to flood coating

Falls, I think we're on the same page and are saying that the flood coat acts as a "bridge" between the epoxy and the plastic base (?). However, I gotta think there must be some infiltration of the palstic from the epoxy, as well.

Either way, treatment is key.

Anyone have a video of them flame treating before layup?

ondeck (only replying a few months late!): I don't think the epoxy glue would penetrate the epoxy ink and interract with the ptex at all. Epoxy based products are pretty water tight once they harden so I would say that the epoxy just bonds purely to the epoxy ink flood coat, nothing else.

I second neatturns' request for a video of someone's version of flame treatment. I haven't had any delam yet (yet being the operative word!), but like all else think that reflaming prob gives better insurance

go to 2:30

Nice I like that video. I've probably been holding the torch a little too close. I do use the water trick for testing though. I'm surprised they don't mention abradinv the surfaces.

Awesome post dbs. Your content is always great.
I'm nothing close to an expert on what flame treating does, but I've heard a thing or 2.
Flame treating changes the chemical makeup on the surface of the sidewall. I've heard that some materials will, cardboard being one will reverse or reduce the integrity of the flame treatment. I don't know over what time period or why.
Hope it helps.

That post was for tim

thanks MM