Ski Builders Forum

You guys are freaks. I mean that in the best possible way. Freaks.

I riveted 2 pieces of 90 degree angle to the underside of the casette so it is flush with the edge. The dodgy diagram below shows the orientation of the angle in cross section with the middle of the cassette towards the L side
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When you slide the cassette in you push it until the angle sits flush against the side of your molds. When it is flat against it you know the cassette base is exactly parallel to the length of your mold. Then I've drilled a hole through each piece of angle, alligned the cassette lengthwise exactly then drilled through the angle's hole into the MDF. When the cassette goes in I allign the angle agaiunst the side of the molds then push a rivet through the two holes into the MDF holes to get the correct fore/aft allignent two.
A picture really would paint 1000 words here!

I think I get the picture.

My tip/tail molds are adjustable to accommodate different length skis. Having a mechanism to ensure the cassette is not placed to high/low on the tip/tail would help w/ the edge dropping and give consistency.

Just another task to add to the laundry list of others .....

I had problems with resin last year in an unheated snow board setup with full length wood tips of 2mm thickness the tips would delam after pressing and in one case along the length check yours with a razor blade may look ok but its not, is that what I'm seeing in your pic, if so your resin may be too brittle, what resin are you using? solved it somewhat by sandblasting the edges before layup to remove any oil residue and flaking caused by the anealing we were doing at the time and we mixed a goo (epoxy and high density filler) up and ran a bead around the edge over the steel edges this removes some of the brittleness by allowing the epoxy to key with the filler and reduce its pure state, to prove the point cure a disc 1/4"thick from a mixing cup one pure mixed resin and the other a goo mix the goo mix will not shatter as easily as the straight epoxy when impacted , now we cold bend our edges, added heat to the press and bought QCM epoxy the boards have never been better.

look for a resin with a high flex strength is some advice from a composites supplier we were told, I'm not techy so the numbers and values I was told would only be guessing and I have a bad memory.

cheers
Jim

Thanks Jim. I use QCM resin EMV-0049 and hardener ECA-032. I talked to them when I started building skis last year and that's what they recommended. The tips stay intact, it's only been along the edge in the tips that's been the problem. No delam issues anywhere else.

I have your sandblast dangling. That is just one step over the line. Small step: yes. Way over: yes. Can I be trusted since I've clearly stepped over: no. I've personally had too much saki but I have to say: heat. HEAT. Fundamentally sound. Don't build skis without it. I have to go be sick now.....

WOW!

Brazen wrote:I have your sandblast dangling. That is just one step over the line. Small step: yes. Way over: yes. Can I be trusted since I've clearly stepped over: no. I've personally had too much saki but I have to say: heat. HEAT. Fundamentally sound. Don't build skis without it. I have to go be sick now.....

MontuckyMadman wrote:WOW!

Brazen wrote:I have your sandblast dangling. That is just one step over the line. Small step: yes. Way over: yes. Can I be trusted since I've clearly stepped over: no. I've personally had too much saki but I have to say: heat. HEAT. Fundamentally sound. Don't build skis without it. I have to go be sick now.....

QUE?

skidesmond wrote:

MontuckyMadman wrote:WOW!

Brazen wrote:I have your sandblast dangling. That is just one step over the line. Small step: yes. Way over: yes. Can I be trusted since I've clearly stepped over: no. I've personally had too much saki but I have to say: heat. HEAT. Fundamentally sound. Don't build skis without it. I have to go be sick now.....

QUE?

Como?

Nada, nunca, jamas. Really.