Ski Builders Forum

switzch wrote:So if you are using parchment paper how do you stick your base to the bottom cassette during layup?

You could leave a hole in the parchment paper and then use some spray adhesive, or use double sided tape, must be very thin to fasten the base to the cassette.

we use double stick at the ends of effective edge, there's a bit more epoxy than necessary sometimes but we have great grinders. Partall#2 allows complete removal. I tried spray77 a couple times...that was a total box of bees I couldn't get it off the cassette sheets.

super 77 is easily removed from cooked cassettes with MEK.

You know the stuff that makes you sterile and gives you heart problems?

if your shit is flat and your pressure is even ish the amount of resin is negligible. Gone in almost one pass on a wet belt at 80 grit

I had one spray adhesive that rubbed off with alcohol (methylated spirtits/denatured alcohol). It didn't stick that well. I got another that sticks really well but has to be rubbed off with acetone.
I agree that epoxy on the base really isn't that big a deal if you are getting them belt ground. Epoxy isn't as hard as UHMWPE either (I don't think) so shouldn't really worry a shop and their belt wear.

Here is my system that has been working well. I use contact paper on the base of the ski and then use spray adhesive on the whole base of the ski to secure it to the parchment paper. I then tack the parchment paper to the mold with a stapler at the ends and middle so it is secure where I want it.

I don't get any epoxy under the base this way so no pockets to grind flat. I just peel off the contact paper and no adhesive to remove on the base or cassette.

When do you apply the contact paper? Before routering the base? After attaching the edges?

I have been applying it after attaching the edges. But it does make more sense to apply it before routering as long as it cuts cleanly and stays adhered. It doesn't have a high adhesion so it might peel a little.

There will be spray adhesive on the edges to remove but very little. If I had a base grinder where I do all my other finishing work in my garage I probably wouldn't worry about any base masking at all. For now, I go into a ski shop to do base and edge grinding and it gives me a little extra work before I go in there.

Dr. Delam wrote:I have been applying it after attaching the edges...

What exactly is this contact paper and where did you buy it?
I've been using the 3M blue painters tape, 6" wide rolls, but it's expensive and does not have a long shelf life. When brand new it peels fine but on the last pair I pressed it was a bugger to remove. Glad I have a Steinel heat gun to soften the grip of the tape.

-S

I use this to protect the topsheet when pressing, if I was covering the base I'd use it as well.

http://www.productsignsupplies.com/inde ... edium.Tack.

Brazen, how high of temperature can this TransferRite withstand? I can't find this data on the web.

-S

I'm not actually sure. I use it to 180f/70min and it's fine, I'm not sure how high it will go though or durationally how it will respond...it just works for what I need atm.

haha SHIF: "Finally found the perfect tape for protecting both the base and top sheet during heated ski pressing. 3M automotive painting tape, type 233+

It can handle 250 degrees F and peels off clean and easy! "

It sure is an evolutive process, I'm so glad this resource is here. Thanks.

Brazen wrote:... 3M automotive painting tape, type 233+...

That green colored tape seemed good at the time but the more common blue painters tape has proven better. Now I've learned that it has a relatively short shelf life and so I'm seeking a superior alternative.
I'm going to buy a 6" wide roll of TransferRite 592U and give it a shot.
I should edit or delete that old post you dug up.

-S

Shif, Con-Tact Paper is basically shelf lining material. It really isn't paper but I imagine that the company started out making shelf lining that was made of paper.

You can buy it at any home center type place(Wally World is the cheapest) and it comes in various colors and prints but I always go with the clear stuff. I used to cover my old ugly ski top sheets of my Atomic Powder Plus with it and it actually held up really well.

I have used it for topsheet masking, base masking, and it handles high temps fine. It removes easily with no residue.

I also like to use the backing material for protecting work areas when gluing up cores, mixing epoxy, etc.