Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 6:45 pm
This is what we do at ON3P. Works great. You can still mess up if you aren't good at putting the ski through and keeping it level, but once you get going it works great. Rowen had never, ever used a router table before. Now he is able to route seriously almost to the tips. It scares the shit out of me watching it...but he has yet to damage anything and this is after doing it well over 1000 times.jono wrote:On the Kingswood video, at 3:56-4:22, there is a router with a plastic strip in front of it. By providing a single contact point between the router table and the ski base, this strip makes it so you don't have to overcome camber by pressing down to keep the skis from being eaten by the router bit.
I haven't tried this yet but it looks like a good way to avoid damage from the dreaded camber induced bounce.
The techniques that involve running the router along the base of the ski scare me because I almost always tilt the router when I have one running in my hand.
http://kingswoodskis.com/home/factory-construction
We have a special router holder that allows us to adjust the sidewall angle, which is nice because we vary it slightly between models. Less for big mountain, more for park. I forget what it is called, but it isn't cheap, but works great. That and a straight, insert bit with a bit of dremel modifications and we are set.
As for sidewall bevel.....it looks nice, decreases weight, and help to prevent damage from skis hitting each other. There is also the obvious tuning factor.
I don't like bevel being too big.
There is a ton of marketing BS out there about sidewall bevel (as there is with lots of stuff). my personal favorite...
So Awesome
22° SLANTED ABS SIDEWALLS
All our ABS sidewalls feature a 22 slant for maximum edge control and tuning. Physically, this angle is also the best solution against shark bites and rail dings. 22 = fewer blown out edges and better power transmission !!!
........right.