Production Edge Fixing
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2007 11:56 am
Production Edge Fixing
Hey everyone,
I'm wondering how manufactures keep the extremely tight fit between edge and base. I know they receive edges pre-bent to tip rads. Line in their old video held 'em with clamps, the Burton Jeremy Jones layup video shows locating fasteners that I assume push the edge snug into the base (top video on http://www.grafsnowboards.com/index.php?url=media). I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or more details on how this was done. I'd like to achieve a tighter fit with edge and base in my rides.
Interesting side note, has anyone on this forum toured any factories? Just curious.
Thanks from the prairies.
I'm wondering how manufactures keep the extremely tight fit between edge and base. I know they receive edges pre-bent to tip rads. Line in their old video held 'em with clamps, the Burton Jeremy Jones layup video shows locating fasteners that I assume push the edge snug into the base (top video on http://www.grafsnowboards.com/index.php?url=media). I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or more details on how this was done. I'd like to achieve a tighter fit with edge and base in my rides.
Interesting side note, has anyone on this forum toured any factories? Just curious.
Thanks from the prairies.
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2007 11:56 am
You need a very very precice mold (casette) and prebent edges to be able to just press the edges into place.
To get a tight fit, lots of clamps and lots of patience. By hand you can get acurate enough to avoid any visable gap. Learning on this one is slow and hard. Just be prepared to take the edge off, scrape off the super glue and try again.
When teaching somone to edge bases it normaly takes them a whole day to do the first one right. Maybee 2 the next day.
To get a tight fit, lots of clamps and lots of patience. By hand you can get acurate enough to avoid any visable gap. Learning on this one is slow and hard. Just be prepared to take the edge off, scrape off the super glue and try again.
When teaching somone to edge bases it normaly takes them a whole day to do the first one right. Maybee 2 the next day.

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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2007 11:56 am
Some of the manufacturers do not glue their edges on. Their molds are designed with magnets so they snap the edges in place.They work very hard at getting the precise edge length correct so when the board is pressed the edge does not separate at the ends and leave a gap. On ski that the edge was not correct, you will see a tiny gap between the ends of the edges. The tolerance between the edge and the cavity opening is somewhere around .010 to .015 inches. Since ptex expands quite a bit, the base material pushes again the edge which pushes against the cavity of the bottom mold when heated in the molding process.
This kind of process requires that the area be climate controlled in many cases since the ptex can expand enough that you can't get the edges to
snap into the cavities.
This kind of process requires that the area be climate controlled in many cases since the ptex can expand enough that you can't get the edges to
snap into the cavities.
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2007 11:56 am
Thanks CADMAN. One additional question. So there is in fact a cavity milled out of the bottom mold, depth of which I assume to be edge thickness with vertical walls, and plan shape corresponds to base profile plus edge thickness, would this be correct? Also, is aluminum or steel tooling used from what you've seen?
For a sandwich ski, is the top mold flat, not meaning planar, but that it is a flat surface shaped to the desired upper surface of the ski, or would it be a 3D mold top like a cap ski, which has an upper cavity?
Thanks, I appreciate the help.
For a sandwich ski, is the top mold flat, not meaning planar, but that it is a flat surface shaped to the desired upper surface of the ski, or would it be a 3D mold top like a cap ski, which has an upper cavity?
Thanks, I appreciate the help.