Router suggestions
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Router suggestions
You guys have any suggestions on a good router for profiling cores? Im new to the whole process.
Porter Cable 690 series router, simply the best product out there. I worked at a custom yacht manufacturer for 5 years, when these router finally did break down after daily use, the fix was always simple. I think the biggest issue that we ever had was the plug in the D-handle base going bad, but keep in mind that we would use them everyday for a few hours at the minimum. I think they also have one of the easiest to use collet systems. We probably had close to 75 of these in use.
It seems that just about every accessory out there is designed to fit the 690 routers, plus porter cable makes numerous bases to swap onto the same motor. For example, at home we keep the fixed based mounted in the table, the D-handle on the motor, and swap in the plunge base when it is convenient.
If you're going to do a lot, as in more then a few pairs, of building, buy a high quality tool. Anything else will just leave you frustrated with potentially damaged work.
It seems that just about every accessory out there is designed to fit the 690 routers, plus porter cable makes numerous bases to swap onto the same motor. For example, at home we keep the fixed based mounted in the table, the D-handle on the motor, and swap in the plunge base when it is convenient.
If you're going to do a lot, as in more then a few pairs, of building, buy a high quality tool. Anything else will just leave you frustrated with potentially damaged work.
Yeah, I've read about some others who have had bit's slip and go a little bit deeper then intended, ruining the core. These bits will vibrate quite a bit when spun up to 20,000 rpm.
Looking at www.rockler.com, they've got the 690LR router listed for $149.99, that's a great one to start with. A step above that is the 694VK for $209, I like this one because it has a "soft start", ramping up the rpm.
If you look around, you'll probably find a good deal on one of these. For example, Amazon.com has it right now (4 left) for $112, and this was just the first Google hit. If I wasn't returning to my parent's house (where I've got access to my dads tools, plus anything he wants to borrow from the yacht company) I'd snag one of these.
Even if you build a few pairs of skis and loose interest, you should be able to sell a good tool for little loss either on ebay or here. You most likely won;t be able to turn around and sell some no-name brand router.
Looking at www.rockler.com, they've got the 690LR router listed for $149.99, that's a great one to start with. A step above that is the 694VK for $209, I like this one because it has a "soft start", ramping up the rpm.
If you look around, you'll probably find a good deal on one of these. For example, Amazon.com has it right now (4 left) for $112, and this was just the first Google hit. If I wasn't returning to my parent's house (where I've got access to my dads tools, plus anything he wants to borrow from the yacht company) I'd snag one of these.
Even if you build a few pairs of skis and loose interest, you should be able to sell a good tool for little loss either on ebay or here. You most likely won;t be able to turn around and sell some no-name brand router.
After a lot of shopping around, I went with a Dewalt that came with a couple different attachments, and has variable speed. I have been very happy with it.
My first router was my father's Craftsman brand router and it was very difficult to maintain bit depth and the collar system was quite bad as well.
But, I think most people would agree that as long as you buy quality (in the USA, this means Bosch, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Porter-Cable, and a few others) you will most likely be happy, as they are all built to a high standard. Just stay away from the Home Depot or Craftsman (Crapman) tools. The low quality tools are okay if you are doing a little work here and there, but shaping cores can put quite a bit of strain on a router. And, as I found, a lot more strain that a low quality tool can handle.
My first router was my father's Craftsman brand router and it was very difficult to maintain bit depth and the collar system was quite bad as well.
But, I think most people would agree that as long as you buy quality (in the USA, this means Bosch, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Porter-Cable, and a few others) you will most likely be happy, as they are all built to a high standard. Just stay away from the Home Depot or Craftsman (Crapman) tools. The low quality tools are okay if you are doing a little work here and there, but shaping cores can put quite a bit of strain on a router. And, as I found, a lot more strain that a low quality tool can handle.
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Wannabebuilder
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 8:22 am
Router aghghh
Trying to find one on ebay. Do I want a D handle version? Does it matter?
Is the 690 1.5 HP enough power for all I need it for ie: cutting lots of different stuff and making bottom molds. I'm looking at 2HP min.
Thanks
Is the 690 1.5 HP enough power for all I need it for ie: cutting lots of different stuff and making bottom molds. I'm looking at 2HP min.
Thanks
I have a couple of D-handles myself, and, except for some very specific jobs, I don't really care for them. I think the common opposed handle router handle set-up is more practical for most tasks.
I have a number of 1.5 hp and 2+ hp routers, and I think a 1.5 hp good quality router (like the 690) will handle all of the normal ski building needs quite well. I take pretty small cuts on all of the different ski building operations anyway, so even if I'm using a bigger router, I almost never use it even near it's full capacity.
One thing that I do highly recommend is that you get a router that is capable of plunge cutting. I use the plunge cutting feature about 80% of the time. I also recommend a set of router guide bushings. I use them on at least half of my router operations.
G-man
I have a number of 1.5 hp and 2+ hp routers, and I think a 1.5 hp good quality router (like the 690) will handle all of the normal ski building needs quite well. I take pretty small cuts on all of the different ski building operations anyway, so even if I'm using a bigger router, I almost never use it even near it's full capacity.
One thing that I do highly recommend is that you get a router that is capable of plunge cutting. I use the plunge cutting feature about 80% of the time. I also recommend a set of router guide bushings. I use them on at least half of my router operations.
G-man
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Wannabebuilder
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 8:22 am
Sounds like there are good recommendations on the kind of router to get. We often hear and learn from experience 'you get what you pay for'. Sometimes you can get the hole body for a reasonable price and pay more for the router bit/blades etc. as they don't tend to come with great ones to begin with. As for the planer Idris got for example, it was very cheap and worked great to profile our cores instead of using a router this time, but we had to take it apart a few times, readjust the blade so it's level and make some modifications. Then it worked hard and great for 4 pairs of skis, and cutting hard side wall material for a friend's pair as well, with the same blade.