Titanal layup
I'm going to try a titanal build, but I'm split between two layup settings and the use of VDS.
- one Titanal sheet between the edges tangs and close to the top sheet, or Titanal on both sides of the core?
- In Sean Martin's video, he didn't use any VDS close to Titanal, and he bonded it directly on the base and the fibers. From what I read, you should use a layer of VDS on both sides of the aluminum sheet. Any insights?
I'm vacuum pressing and it will be a carving build.
Titanal layup dilemma
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
Re: Titanal layup dilemma
Your first bullet is a bit confusing, but you definitely need titanal in both your too and bottom laminate. Otherwise your camber will change with temperature. Different thickness is fine, I prefer 0.6mm top and 0.4mm bottom.
Bottom titanal I cut narrower to fit between the edges. That way you don't need a rabbet on your core, as it is similar thickness to the edge's T's. But I have a carbon layer overlapping the edges. If you don't have a fabric layer (90° or biax) overlapping your edge, your titanal must overlap.
VDS is not needed, but a clean fresh surface is. On the 3 titanal (hardboot carving) boards I built, I bonded titanal without any surface preparation. My last build the titanal was past shelf life, and the top layer came off on the first day ( it got off cleanly, it wet sanded it with epoxy and stuck it back on, the board is absolutely great since).
You can add VDS for more camping of course, but I'd be hesitant to put it between the titanal and core. VDS does not magically increase bond strength of epoxy by the way. What it does it take away stress peaks, and thereby increase the strength of edge bonding. If you use a continuous titanal sheet, stress peaks are not much of a worry. If you get creative on you titanal like e.g. Virus does, VDS might have benefits.
Good luck with your build!
BTW vacuum pressing is fine. I do vacuum infusion with great results.
Bottom titanal I cut narrower to fit between the edges. That way you don't need a rabbet on your core, as it is similar thickness to the edge's T's. But I have a carbon layer overlapping the edges. If you don't have a fabric layer (90° or biax) overlapping your edge, your titanal must overlap.
VDS is not needed, but a clean fresh surface is. On the 3 titanal (hardboot carving) boards I built, I bonded titanal without any surface preparation. My last build the titanal was past shelf life, and the top layer came off on the first day ( it got off cleanly, it wet sanded it with epoxy and stuck it back on, the board is absolutely great since).
You can add VDS for more camping of course, but I'd be hesitant to put it between the titanal and core. VDS does not magically increase bond strength of epoxy by the way. What it does it take away stress peaks, and thereby increase the strength of edge bonding. If you use a continuous titanal sheet, stress peaks are not much of a worry. If you get creative on you titanal like e.g. Virus does, VDS might have benefits.
Good luck with your build!
BTW vacuum pressing is fine. I do vacuum infusion with great results.
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FigmentOriginal
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Re: Titanal layup dilemma
I have broken a carbon/titanal Virus build and took it apart. The board construction was part of the evo 1 design series. They used a perforated VDS rubber between composite layers. It was a pretty exotic layup to say the least.
