Made to order another snowboard. It turns out that many people cook sleds in the summer This is a twin tip both in geometry and in rigidity. Aspen and ash core. Topsheet in birch veneer and American walnut.
Board length 158 cm.
Contact edge length 114 cm
Effective piping length 126 cm
Nose width 296 mm
Waist width 253mm
Tail Width 296mm
Camber deflection 3 mm
Sidecut radius 9 meters.
Stiffness about 7.
I came to the conclusion that birch veneer is very good and easy to process. Epoxy lays flat on it. Further, the epoxy is well polished and creates a primer layer for varnish. Well, I really like the look of the birch. When you just hold a sheet of birch veneer in your hands, it looks very light and almost inconspicuous, without a pronounced wood pattern. But when you hold a snowboard in your hands then all doubts disappear Before that, I used ash, walnut, sapele veneer. Birch is the leader for me in terms of ease of processing and appearance.
I’m doing a similar layup and was wondering what sort of finish you get on top of the veneer straight out of the press? I get tiny areas of pitting, and I’m not sure if it’s from debris, or air bubbles from outgassing.
Also, what type of varnish are you using? I’m probably going to go the same route and apply a finish coat to the top of the epoxy after prepping the epoxy surface out of the press.
Keep up the good work
Here’s a photo showing the imperfections I’m getting right out of the press
8CBC7108-BD6D-4893-BE3D-75679D01AE4C.jpeg (99.91 KiB) Viewed 136569 times
I use Kudo alkyd urethane yacht varnish in a can. I glue the snowboard in a press at 60 degrees Celsius for 4 hours at a pressure of 3 atm, then turn off the heating and cool under the same pressure for 3-4 hours, sometimes I leave it to cool overnight if the gluing was in the evening. I have come to the conclusion that regardless of the type of veneer, after taking the snowboard out of the press, you do not get a perfectly even coating of epoxy. Every time there are "dimples" in the resin, especially if the veneer initially has an uneven structure. By the way, I sand the veneer before gluing with P120 grit. But it still doesn't help to get a pit-free epoxy finish. To get a flat snowboard surface ready for varnishing, after removing the snowboard from the press, I wait 2-3 days for the epoxy to completely cure. Next, I sand it with 280 grit, slightly tilting the orbital sander. Thus, I almost remove the layer of epoxy from the veneer. While the sander is removing the epoxy, the dust from it is white. As soon as the sander starts to touch the veneer, the dust becomes the color of the veneer and I stop sanding this place. Thus I go through the whole snowboard. It turns out a snowboard covered with veneer impregnated with epoxy. Further, if I don’t like the look of the snowboard, I apply another layer of epoxy with a foam roller, i.e. I paint the snowboard with a thin layer of epoxy, then sand it again, but do not tilt the sander. I'm already getting a better base for applying varnish. Or, if I like how the epoxy sanded, I apply the first coat of varnish without applying an additional layer of epoxy. Next, I apply 3-4 layers of varnish, in accordance with the instructions for it. Birch veneer seemed to me the most convenient in processing. After taking the snowboard out of the press, the epoxy lies on it in a maximally even layer, a minimum of grinding is required, an additional layer of epoxy is not needed, and the varnish lies as evenly as possible. In general, I am a fan of birch veneer!
verticalwhiteout wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 4:11 pm
Your boards are looking really good!
I’m doing a similar layup and was wondering what sort of finish you get on top of the veneer straight out of the press? I get tiny areas of pitting, and I’m not sure if it’s from debris, or air bubbles from outgassing.
Also, what type of varnish are you using? I’m probably going to go the same route and apply a finish coat to the top of the epoxy after prepping the epoxy surface out of the press.
Keep up the good work
Here’s a photo showing the imperfections I’m getting right out of the press
8CBC7108-BD6D-4893-BE3D-75679D01AE4C.jpeg
Thank you, I have tried to answer as broadly as possible below. You can write me a message with your question, if I can help you, I will definitely answer.
Thank you, Chrismp.
These are not exactly additional inserts This is my mistake. I incorrectly determined the location of the inserts and drilled extra holes I use Caspol(www.caspol.ru) liquid plastic, it is made in Russia. Two components. They have plastics with different life times, I use one that hardens in about 4 minutes after mixing the components.
Another one board.
This board was tested in the deep powder of Siberia and proved to be excellent. Easily emerges from under deep snow, and also confidently cuts arcs on the slopes of the ski resort/
Length 160 cm.
Nose-waist-tail mm: 306-264-298mm.
Sidecut radius 8.5 meters.
Contact length: 106 cm
Aspen core with ash stripe for resilience and responsiveness.
Top in exotic Marblewood veneer.
Triaxial fiberglass for rigidity and board stability at speed.
Additional inserts for the snowiest days, so that you can move the bindings back as much as possible.
Hardness: about 6-7.
Camber(5mm) with smooth early rocker in the nose.
Another pair of boards. Snowboard WoodTony Black Ofram and it's split version WoodTony Forester.
Lenght 160 cm
Core: aspen + 2 ash stringers in center of board under the inserts
Nose-waist-tail mm: 304-258-291 mm.
Sidecut radius 8.5 m.
Contact length 110 cm
Base: sintered Isosport 7500
Camber(5 mm) with early rise rocker(35 cm) in nose
Topsheet: Black Ofram on snowboard, WallNut+Birch stringer on splitboard.
Fiberglass: 3-ax 700 g/m2(top)+2-ax 450 g/m2(bottom) on snowboard and 4-ax 800 g/m2(top and bottom) on split
Weight: 3 kg board, 3.3 kg split
Hi everybody!
Another one splitboard for a client from our workshop WoodTony Craft Boards. Follow me in instagram(wood_tony_sam).
Lengt 157
Nose-waist-tail 320 - 270 -303 mm
Sidecut radius 7.7 m
Biaxial carbon fiber
Core aspen+ash stringer
Magnetraction edge with 3 additional points(opposite bindings and in waist)
Polyurethane sidewalls
Topsheet birch(light)+american wallnut(dark)
Weight with furniture aboaut 2950 g
I created a facebook account https://www.facebook.com/asderevsam. I will be glad if you follow the news of our workshop. By season 23/24 we plan to actively make snowboards and splitboards. If you want to order a board for yourself, I will be glad.
And another one board for a customer
Length 156 cm
Nose-waist-tail mm 302-256-289
Sidecut 8m
Camber with early rise nose rocker
Contact dge length 103 cm
Effective edge length 119 cm
Core aspen+ash stripes
Polyurethane sidewalls
Bi-ax(450 g/m2)+Quadro-ax(800 g/m2) fiberglass
Sintered base Isosport 7500
Edge with 3 additional contact points
Topsheet oak veneer
This is a twin tip both in geometry and in rigidity. Aspen and ash core. Topsheet in birch veneer and American walnut.
