Core Profiler

[Idris]

I'm finding my core proflier a pig to use. I am on my third set of rails.

First were old skis, getting the shape I wanted was easy, the lack of straight edge for the bridge to run along ruiend that one

Seccond was made from some left over tounge and grouve boards. the genreal nasyness and waviyness of the boards scupperd that one along with one of them being a two part job, the bridge would always stick at the joint.

Third nice heavy partical board. I think I've got that problem fixed.

The bridge is 1/2" ply and 1"x1" stock so no flexing or messing there.

I am having to slowly take the material away bit by bit. First ski took me 10 passes.

I have a 1200w B&D router with a 1 1/2" bit. My core is spruce (I think) with teak sidewalls

The spruce cuts ok, but the teak is heavy going and it snatches a lot. I've tried Running wol and high rpm on the router. high cuts easier but snatches worse.

Am I just being impatient or am I doing something wrong. My laminated core is almost an inch thick to begin with due to lack of lumber choices and no acess to a table saw

Any pointers wouid be great

(Base of the profile table is a heavy blockboard, using heavy partical board to rasie the work piece, not that this should make any difference)

[bigKam]

what kind of router bit are you using?

we're using bowl and tray router bits, for example, like this:

http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/45980.html

about 3/4 to 1 inch diameter.
hope this helps.

[powdercow]

Idris -

I also use mdf for my rails and it works great.

My bit is similar to Kams but without the rounded edges and is 3/4" in diameter. I have a planer and so the most material I have to remove is about 1 cm but I am able to do that in one pass. Not sure why you would have so much trouble.

oh and I am using poplar and ash for reference.

[Idris]

Ok, might be the router bit. I use a square bit, the widest one I could find.

Will go in search of bowl type. Router bit selection is not so good here

Thanks

[G-man]

I find that it's also important that the core is held down really securely so that it isn't pulled up into the cutter while profiling.


G-man

[powdercow]

I find that it's also important that the core is held down really securely so that it isn't pulled up into the cutter while profiling.

That deserves repeating.

A vacum setup is ideal but a cheap workaround I found was duck brand double sided carpet tape (home depot). It's fairly thin and strong enough that I was worried about breaking my core when I was prying it loose from the jig. I also use it to secure masonite to the camber frame and my bases to the masonite. A small piece really holds things down.

One more hint on profiling is to work from the tip inward for the last few inches. Working from the inside out caused breakage for me.

[BerkshireSki]

Going from the tip/tail inward is great advice as going outward creates chatter. You can also simply place duct tape over the tip and tails after they have been profiled to secure them to the table and prevent them from moving.

[thetradwoodboat]

i'm using a router bridge type profiler like as most guys are. underneath the deck of the profile jig i built a shallow box the same area as the deck. i then drilled holes in the deck ( about 1" dia.)that would be hidden by the core stock when it is in place on the jig. a bigger hole in the bottom of the shallow box accepts the hose from my dust collector. when i switch it on there is an amazing suction created on the core stock, it holds it perfectly flat. i've had to hot glue locators on the deck to keep the core from sliding slightly during routing, but otherwise it is great! i would guess it would still work well with a shop vac.

i hope you easterners are getting onto the big W. its just sick up there right now. great gulf is full of snow!
happy spring