Peel ply or perforated release film or both for Vacuum

[Akiwi]

I have searched for a while to try to answer this, but can't seem to get the correct answer.


Up till now I have always used Peel ply, then perforated Release film, then Bleeder material in my layups.

The advantage is that it gives a very good glass to resin ratio when maaking boards.
The disadvantage is that the Peel ply I use needs to be sanded a lot to get a smooth finish that I can then cover in a 2 component clear coat to finish it.
Also there is a lot of waste.

If I use only the perforated release film, I get a smoother surface, but it has lots of little bumps in it, and the breather material tends to come through the holes and you get a light fur on the surface after release.
Though I think that it is less work to sand this smooth than the Peel Ply.

Another option is to use the perforated Release film, then a layer of peel ply to seperate the breather...

If I use the release film as the first layer over the epoxy, do I need to worry about the waxy top surface of the epoxy? Will it prevent any finnishing coats from adhering?

Interested in hearing others opinions..

I'm trying to minimise the finnishing work required in getting a glassy smooth top layer.

Here is an example of what I mean.

This is the surface I get after removing the peel Ply.

[Hannes]

If I build a ski with veneer on top I just use perforated release film.
Just short sanding and then I use linseed oil.
If I am building a ski without topsheet I use both. I use the release film to tear of the fleece, then I cut the Ski out out and get the bases grinded. After this is finished I Rip of the Peel ply and roll a topcoat of epoxy ontop. The advantage of peel ply is to be able to laminate directly on the surface after it is torn of. You don't have to sand or clean.

[24Dave]

So have you had good adhesion and no easy chipping after applying a gloss coat to the texture left behind from peel ply? I guess you are saying yes. I'll have to try this.

I've always been afraid to add two part gloss coat to surface left after peel ply without sanding. I hand sand the texture with 400 grit, blow it with compressed air then spray with good results, but lots of steps there. Does snow stick a lot to the texture left from release fabric, I have never tried it.

[pmg]

There are different peel plys. Some are rougher, some finer. Perhaps look for a fine one, that might do the job for you.

Cheers
Philipp

[Hannes]

I hab no bondingissues. But I had problems with pinholes. That's why I changed to using veneer.

[Akiwi]

I'll try that with the perforated release film directly on the veneer, maybe with the release film between that and the fleece to prevent hairy bits on the surface.

For skis without veneer you said you leave the peel ply on, till the last step, good idea.
But if you only roll some epoxy onto it, shouldnt this be protected from UV?
And if yes, How / what. It would be nice to reduce the sanding before final coat of clearcoat.

[Hannes]

You can use uv-protected topcoat or SuperSap. I used SuperSap for both, layup and topcoat.