The pouring urethane sidewall thread
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
I've started using Erapol products. They have every hardness you could think of using, 85A, 95A, 60D, 70D and I can get a 1.1kilo kit for about $38.
The only negative is you really need to add a pigment as they are just your usual light amber resin color. The smooth on stuff has a very cool bright white.
The only negative is you really need to add a pigment as they are just your usual light amber resin color. The smooth on stuff has a very cool bright white.
Chris, being a a cnc guy you def. need to start dong the inverse profile channel. Saves half the poly. We just do it 2mm deeper for wiggle room.Skim plane the bottom flat. Flip over and profile down to the poly. Have not wrecked one yet. But I'm sure we will 
boards don't waste a ton with full channels , but skis waste a ton.
boards don't waste a ton with full channels , but skis waste a ton.I do that without cnc by making the routing template the reverse profile.Dtrain wrote:Chris, being a a cnc guy you def. need to start dong the inverse profile channel. Saves half the poly. We just do it 2mm deeper for wiggle room.Skim plane the bottom flat. Flip over and profile down to the poly. Have not wrecked one yet. But I'm sure we will
Works perfectly
Ok, firstly I profile my cores through a drum sander on a profiling bed.
To create the appropriate profile I run a board through the sander on my profiling jig, this will come out the same profile as a finished core. I keep this to use on future routing templates.
Now I run the actual routing template through the sander on top of the previous board, the result is the routing template has the reverse profile, thin in the middle and thick on the ends which obviously translates when using it to rout as deep in the middle and shallow on the ends.
It works a charm.
To create the appropriate profile I run a board through the sander on my profiling jig, this will come out the same profile as a finished core. I keep this to use on future routing templates.
Now I run the actual routing template through the sander on top of the previous board, the result is the routing template has the reverse profile, thin in the middle and thick on the ends which obviously translates when using it to rout as deep in the middle and shallow on the ends.
It works a charm.
Genius indeed!
Haven't been on here in a while, but had a quick search and didn't find anything:
Anyone used a pour gun for sidewalls? Could pull the air out of both part a and b in separate pots, heat it somewhat and push the material through to a mixing tip. I know of some major manufacturers using similar setups, but unfortunately all of the equipment I've found is very pricey, but not terribly complicated looking. I'd love to come up with another solution.
Michael Engineering has a lot of good looking stuff for inspiration. All seems pretty straight forward too. Silica gel canisters to suck out as much moisture as possible!
Some fancier looking options at Nordson
Some guy also made a cordless drill attachment and called it the Dra-gun. Seems to be that he wasn't that successful with it though, and I think sold the idea. It is available at Fiberlay, but still costs over 1300 bucks!
There's gotta be a better solution.
Haven't been on here in a while, but had a quick search and didn't find anything:
Anyone used a pour gun for sidewalls? Could pull the air out of both part a and b in separate pots, heat it somewhat and push the material through to a mixing tip. I know of some major manufacturers using similar setups, but unfortunately all of the equipment I've found is very pricey, but not terribly complicated looking. I'd love to come up with another solution.
Michael Engineering has a lot of good looking stuff for inspiration. All seems pretty straight forward too. Silica gel canisters to suck out as much moisture as possible!
Some fancier looking options at Nordson
Some guy also made a cordless drill attachment and called it the Dra-gun. Seems to be that he wasn't that successful with it though, and I think sold the idea. It is available at Fiberlay, but still costs over 1300 bucks!
There's gotta be a better solution.
Not sure how easy it would be to controll your mixing values in 2 seperate tubes up to a disposable mixing tip.
Like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Applicat ... ixing+tips
At $1.00 per tip you don't have the hassle of cleaning up afterwards.
Like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Applicat ... ixing+tips
At $1.00 per tip you don't have the hassle of cleaning up afterwards.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
Ya, those are promising. Issue I've had is finding a wide enough nozzle to get good flow, as well as the ratio, as you mentioned. Typically the ratio is set within the nozzle itself and can't be tweaked.
Also, how to push the material through? Pressurizing the material containers is the obvious choice, but this could introduce unwanted air into the solution.
Also, how to push the material through? Pressurizing the material containers is the obvious choice, but this could introduce unwanted air into the solution.