I had some serious base-warping on my latest build. When the skis where put base-to-base the offset at the tail was approximately 10 mm!!
We have made at least 10 pairs without this problem, With bases from the earlier store at skibuilders.com. (32 cm wide, split in the midle and the routed to shape With a template).
I concluded that the material I got from "ww.XXXXXX.com/net" must have had a lot of tension from production.
Im considering buying from skibaumarkt.de this time.
They have a warning about the same problem that occured to me:
http://www.skibaumarkt.de/index.php?opt ... &Itemid=15
Im considering the 15, or 16 cm wide base. http://www.skibaumarkt.de/index.php?opt ... 7&Itemid=9
This base is 1,2 mm thick and I have edges With 1,3 mm step.
Anyone that has tried 1,2 base With 1,3 edges?? Did it fit ok?
Anyone that have experience similar to my warping problem? - Did you find the reason for it?
Any good / bad experiences with skibaumarkt.de?
1,2 mm base with 1,3 mm edge + Base warping + skibaumarkt.de
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hallvardaase
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 11:27 pm
- Location: Norway
Most of the warping I have encountered I have attributed to two things.
1. is tempurature variation while cutting. Keep your bases out if the sun and keep the temp controlled or at least relatively constant. My father in law the chemist explained to me how there is a memory in material like this from how it get heated and rolled during production.
2. Not letting the base material relax at least a few hours before I actually want to cut bases to shape. I first cut the material to length then cut it in half lengthwise. I put it on a flat plank with weight on top to take any curl out.
3. When I stick the base to the template I use double sided carpet tape. Put the tape on the template. Lay the base on a flat surface. Press the templet onto the base. This prevent accidentally putting a bubble into the material.
When I follow this I don't get warped bases.
1. is tempurature variation while cutting. Keep your bases out if the sun and keep the temp controlled or at least relatively constant. My father in law the chemist explained to me how there is a memory in material like this from how it get heated and rolled during production.
2. Not letting the base material relax at least a few hours before I actually want to cut bases to shape. I first cut the material to length then cut it in half lengthwise. I put it on a flat plank with weight on top to take any curl out.
3. When I stick the base to the template I use double sided carpet tape. Put the tape on the template. Lay the base on a flat surface. Press the templet onto the base. This prevent accidentally putting a bubble into the material.
When I follow this I don't get warped bases.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
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hallvardaase
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 11:27 pm
- Location: Norway
Thanks for your advice, Vinman.
Thats kind of the procedure we followed for our first 10 pairs, and they turned out fine. I did it pretty much the same way this time, but it warped a lot...
The things you mention are without doubt important, but I think I will buy some new base from a different supplier and try again...
Opinions and experiences on using 1,2 mm base With 1,3 mm edges are very welcome:-)
Thats kind of the procedure we followed for our first 10 pairs, and they turned out fine. I did it pretty much the same way this time, but it warped a lot...
The things you mention are without doubt important, but I think I will buy some new base from a different supplier and try again...
Opinions and experiences on using 1,2 mm base With 1,3 mm edges are very welcome:-)
I use 1.3edge with 1.4base, no worries about the .1 difference. If anything it gives you some wiggle room on your flatness.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
I used 1.3 edges with 1.2 base. No warping to speak of, but you could see the edge tines through the base. I got the impression that because the base was slightly thinner, the tines pushed in at an angle like so:
I am not sure though.
I do know the board shop didn't particularly like it, when grinding the base after pressing the edges tore up his machine. Possibly because he had to grind down 0.1mm of edge before getting to base.
I am not sure though.
I do know the board shop didn't particularly like it, when grinding the base after pressing the edges tore up his machine. Possibly because he had to grind down 0.1mm of edge before getting to base.
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knightsofnii
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:02 am
- Location: NJ USA
- Contact:
if the edge step is taller than the thickness of the base you will certainly get warping or bubbles in your base, as the base has not received full pressure because the edge stops the press.
Getting all thicknesses dialed is a huge ordeal, and I would attribute almost half my bad boards to the result of having too much difference in thicknesses, or having the wrong parts thicker than the right ones.
Getting all thicknesses dialed is a huge ordeal, and I would attribute almost half my bad boards to the result of having too much difference in thicknesses, or having the wrong parts thicker than the right ones.
Doug
what was the conclusion about the 0.1mm issue? I am about to order edges and base from this supplier will i have a problem after pressing with the base surface or so? please let me know... i think that the edge pocket is 1.4mm (cause they send me a mechanical drawing) not 1.3 and the base thickness is 1.2 for sure.