Size of wood strips in Cores, pros and cons

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Cornice
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Post by Cornice »

Image

How about 3/16 slices? This would be time consuming. Chouinard Toute Neige.
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Dr. Delam
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Post by Dr. Delam »

Most big production skis that I have seen have thinner strips. Their process of gluing is quite a bit different than what most of us do. I feel that the end result is a more consistent product.
Dtrain
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Post by Dtrain »

Ya Ill plane and resaw all the 2x6 in three pieces each. Then rip into 3/4 strips. I'll use gorilla glue Instead of wood glue. It expands and fills voids like sammer said. I'm excited to have a bunch of prepped core blanks of high grade Sitka. Weighed In at 26 pounds per cubic foot. The bamboo we have been using weighed in at 44pound per cubic foot. All that glue in the bamboo is probably half the weight. We have a bunch of maple blanks too, but my buds think all maple is too heavy. Its 48 pounds a cubic foot glued up. I find the heavy shit doesnt bother when in a snowboard. So small with a thin core, barely notice the difference. The maple decks I made rode amazing. Bamboo also, with a very different feel. Look forward to the sitka
Richuk
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Post by Richuk »

"How about 3/16 slices?"

We're looking at a range of species in this core, so perhaps the question is what balance was the designer looking for?

If you are using the core to affect vibration dampening, clamping different strips together in advance of gluing will provided indicative results. I've yet to test the effect of different glue has on a layup.

Does the strength sitka doesn't depend on the orientation of the grain? Not all wood require horizontal orientation. If it equal, simply cut strips - assuming you are planning the faces) and laminate the faces together.
Dtrain
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Post by Dtrain »

ok.......I just did a load of reasearch. on vertical vs horizontal grain patterns. I wont boar you with all the tech info, not mention the playing cards or baseball bats.

vertical (quarter or rift sawn wood) vs horizontal (flat sawn)

vertical shows to be stiffer in bending and deflection tests. Suprisingly not by much. 3/4x3/4 yellow pine strip with perfect straight grain, no run out was tested. one end stationary, other end with weight hung off at 20 1/4'' long.

bends specs taken 3 times on each plain(vert, horiz) with 3 slighty different weights

horizontal bend- .824'', 1.223'', 1.655''
vertical bend - .818'', 1.129'', 1.625''

not a big difference in these test, though it should be said that every species will react slightly different. this has to do with density and age of the trees. winter and summer growth rings will bend and react differently.

all tests show that flat sawn or horizontal grain boards will flex alot farther without breaking though.

In my opinion this means a horizontal grain laminated cores will hold its shape(camber) longer than a vertical grain laminated core, but a vertical grain lammed core will be slightly stiffer or allow a builder to have a thinner core to obtain the desired flex.

for new builders, please understand this is regarding tip to tail vertical cores, I am not referencing wood running horizontally across the ski or board, just the grain orientation of the vertical running boards.
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Really think the reason for vert lam is to retain the stkffness and longevity of rebound over time not intially.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
JSquare
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Post by JSquare »

MontuckyMadman wrote:Really think the reason for vert lam is to retain the stkffness and longevity of rebound over time not intially.
Couldn't agree more. Bending stress distributes through the dense grains... if you have a layer of dense on top of a layer of less dense, you will cause a local stress riser and start to pull apart between the grains. Over time this will weaken the wood and give you a dead feel.

With 3/16, you probably don't even have a grain pattern, plus the glue breaks the grain lines apart. But damn that's a lot more glue as well.

To each their own I guess.
Richuk
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Post by Richuk »

There's a quick discusison of fatigue and failure modes in the paper (hardwood v's softwood):

http://www.giref.ulaval.ca/~deteix/bois ... icle15.pdf

Using an adhesive as a filler isn't a great idea; re-orientating the grain would avoid this. Concentrating on providing the best surface for the bondline between the core and the laminate will ensure you are not carrying isssues. I'm not looking at the mechanical properties of the core to provide stiffness over time.
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