Using tip spacer as core locator
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- Posts: 73
- Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:22 pm
- Location: South Eastern Pennsylvania
Using tip spacer as core locator
using inserts or wooden pins seems to be a popular way to match the core and base up perfectly when pressing. it also seems like a lot of people are unhappy with results like base impressions and core shifts if those come off the base material. i figured, that since tip spacer is basically a part of the core for layup, why not use the excess tip spacer hanging over the base to center the core? if the tip spacer was cut to the width of the mold and made it to each end of the mold perfectly, the core could be perfectly centered over the base material. the base would have to be glued to the mold and the tip spacer would need to be secured to the corners of the mold during layup, but i think it might work for vacuum type presses. i'd love to hear what people think
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You can't or shouldn't fasten the tip spacer, base to the mold or cassette unless you do it in the center. The materials needs to bend/slide to conform to the mold in the press.
But I can see where you're going w/ this..... sounds like you'd be doing the layup on a cassette on the mold and conforming the material during the layup to the mold. Your materials would have to be pre-shaped pretty closely to the shape of the mold, especially the base because of the edges, tip spacers would have to be pre-bent also.
But I can see where you're going w/ this..... sounds like you'd be doing the layup on a cassette on the mold and conforming the material during the layup to the mold. Your materials would have to be pre-shaped pretty closely to the shape of the mold, especially the base because of the edges, tip spacers would have to be pre-bent also.
Mervin manufacturing does exactly that. Cnc cut Tip/tail spacers with tabs on them that align with pegs on the cassette.
I have glued wood block to my sidewalks that contain a hole in them and glue inserts to the cassette outside the base. Core sits on the base perfectly. This took a lot of time and effort. I started just putting the insert on the base and drilling the core.
Snowboard have tons of inserts anyway, what's a couple more?
I too was keen to keep the shit you don't need out of the boards, but now I'm not bothered. I am yet to see base divers etc. though.
I have glued wood block to my sidewalks that contain a hole in them and glue inserts to the cassette outside the base. Core sits on the base perfectly. This took a lot of time and effort. I started just putting the insert on the base and drilling the core.
Snowboard have tons of inserts anyway, what's a couple more?
I too was keen to keep the shit you don't need out of the boards, but now I'm not bothered. I am yet to see base divers etc. though.
I hot glue done MDF scrap to the aluminum after placing the base and core. Cut off in the flashing.
I did just have a small piece of on of these blocks 1.5cmx 2mm x 3mm deep get trapped under the base layer of glass in my last pair. Ground out and filled with epoxy just fine but have to be more careful when placing the core not to force it down.
I did just have a small piece of on of these blocks 1.5cmx 2mm x 3mm deep get trapped under the base layer of glass in my last pair. Ground out and filled with epoxy just fine but have to be more careful when placing the core not to force it down.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
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to mark the location where the inserts have to be glued to the core i simply place the core on top of the base with edges and mark the center of two insert holes on the base. then i draw a crosshair which reflects the diameter of the bases of the inserts (in my case 20mm) on that point. after that it's just a matter of glueing the insert on the crosshair.
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- Posts: 73
- Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:22 pm
- Location: South Eastern Pennsylvania
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- Posts: 2338
- Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
- Location: Western Mass, USA
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Every year we have been looking to find the best cassette setup. Last year we did not use the tip/tail pins and went for aluminum guides that surrounded the base. It made things complex; need tight tolerances, tougher to keep clean, and if base popped onto that guide... you would end up with a major edge recess.
This year we went back to this pin method. It's been working out great. This year we added the bases into the mix. Bases tabbed out on tip/tail of 3/4 wrap edges. Very similar with tipfill/core as old layup video. Drill 4 alignment holes and cassette is complete.

This year we went back to this pin method. It's been working out great. This year we added the bases into the mix. Bases tabbed out on tip/tail of 3/4 wrap edges. Very similar with tipfill/core as old layup video. Drill 4 alignment holes and cassette is complete.
