. Check your form in that area for level? Are you using a 2 part form or a cat-track? Was your resin starting to set up a little before you put the board in? How quickly did you ramp up your temp?Fiber glass-woodcore delam.
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
That's awesome, congratulations on your financing! If you post a picture I'm sure we can get the delamination sorted out. The only time I have ever had anything like you describe happen was when there was too much squeezeout. On the face of it, at 50psi, this shouldn't be an issue but, as we know there's a lot of "other" stuff too . Check your form in that area for level? Are you using a 2 part form or a cat-track? Was your resin starting to set up a little before you put the board in? How quickly did you ramp up your temp?
. Check your form in that area for level? Are you using a 2 part form or a cat-track? Was your resin starting to set up a little before you put the board in? How quickly did you ramp up your temp?"86% of the time it works 100% of the time".
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Upper Left Coast
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 2:09 pm
if i may continue this thread for selfish reasons
i recently pressed a full bamboo core ski, had pressed snowboards but this was our first ski. vertically laminated bamboo, 22oz fiber glass top and bottom with a 9 oz uni layer for binding mount area. entropy resin.
i'll try to get some pictures up but one of the skis was delaminated right out of the press under the binding. in my infinite stupidity, i used spray adhesive to get the core to not shift while on the cnc table. this must have been the reason for failure ? i scuffed the glue side but didnt fully sand it.
pressed at 60 psi for 30 mins once the blankets got hot, maybe a little too much pressure?
snowboards seemed to bond fine, they were router profiled and not spray glued.
any input would be greatly appreciated and i hope it helps the chileans out.
i'll try to get some pictures up but one of the skis was delaminated right out of the press under the binding. in my infinite stupidity, i used spray adhesive to get the core to not shift while on the cnc table. this must have been the reason for failure ? i scuffed the glue side but didnt fully sand it.
pressed at 60 psi for 30 mins once the blankets got hot, maybe a little too much pressure?
snowboards seemed to bond fine, they were router profiled and not spray glued.
any input would be greatly appreciated and i hope it helps the chileans out.
twizz uses spray glue on his cnc to holf down the cores as well. the important thing is that he doesn't spray the glue onto the core itself. He sticks a sheet of application tape onto the core and then sprays the glue onto the application tape.
PS: i profile my cores on a cnc as well and i just use two small screws to keep the core from sliding on the table. i then just set the cutting direction to climb milling which exerts a downward force and holds the core down.
PS: i profile my cores on a cnc as well and i just use two small screws to keep the core from sliding on the table. i then just set the cutting direction to climb milling which exerts a downward force and holds the core down.
Hey guys, so many time without posting here, we were working to much but finaly realise that the problem was that the wood is to soft, so now we are working in a bamboo press machine for get more stiff woodcore. Now we are shaping a prototipe surfboard with our Cnc machine (nice shapebot)
Saludos
Tato
Saludos
Tato
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twizzstyle
- Posts: 2207
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
True story, has worked great for me. I also glue the core down to an extra sheet of MDF, so I don't get nasty spray glue on my CNC spoilboard. I do the exact same thing for drag-kniving out my bases.chrismp wrote:twizz uses spray glue on his cnc to holf down the cores as well. the important thing is that he doesn't spray the glue onto the core itself. He sticks a sheet of application tape onto the core and then sprays the glue onto the application tape.
PS: i profile my cores on a cnc as well and i just use two small screws to keep the core from sliding on the table. i then just set the cutting direction to climb milling which exerts a downward force and holds the core down.
For profiling I use a big 1.5" straight flute router bit, but for cutting out templates/mold ribs/core planforms, I use a 1/4" downward-spiral end mill for the same reason you mentioned, to push down on the work piece.
I'd never want anything with any spray glue on it getting into the layup. That stuff is impossible to clean off, even acetone has a hard time removing it.
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Upper Left Coast
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 2:09 pm
yeah i feel silly for not being prudent enough to remove the spray adhesive since i was so meticulous on everything else, oh well, at least i know how to adjust my profile to optimize the flex pattern for my next pair.
i was just helping my friends build a vacuum table for their cnc gantry that will suck the blood out of your hand if you cover the hose. an atmosphere of negative pressure! that'll do the trick. before we switched to a straight flute we were trying to use an up spiral end mill which would lift the board no matter what you had holding it. anyway, thanks for the info, it's super helpful.
i'll post pictures in the Divide Rides journal, i'm one of three owners of the 'company'.
i was just helping my friends build a vacuum table for their cnc gantry that will suck the blood out of your hand if you cover the hose. an atmosphere of negative pressure! that'll do the trick. before we switched to a straight flute we were trying to use an up spiral end mill which would lift the board no matter what you had holding it. anyway, thanks for the info, it's super helpful.
i'll post pictures in the Divide Rides journal, i'm one of three owners of the 'company'.
Hi Brazzen,Brazen wrote:That's awesome, congratulations on your financing! If you post a picture I'm sure we can get the delamination sorted out. The only time I have ever had anything like you describe happen was when there was too much squeezeout. On the face of it, at 50psi, this shouldn't be an issue but, as we know there's a lot of "other" stuff too
I work with wutato making the skis. I was wondering because we press at 50 PSI but the hoes are way bigger than the mold so maybe the pressure that gets to the skis is way more than 50 PSI right? And when we take the skis out, they sqeezed out a lot of epoxy.
-Also, our epoxy I feel it start to kick before we finish layup... It says it has 15 minutes of pot life at 20° c I think.
-How should the temperature be ramped up? We ramped it up as fast as possible..
-We are using a cat track...
- Also our bamboo, we use it natural, we just take the skin off and then square them and then glue them verticall. I was reading and people that uses bamboo they use it preveusly pressed. Like bamboo flooring. We think our bamboo is to soft to use it naturally...
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twizzstyle
- Posts: 2207
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
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troublemaker
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: The Dalles Oregon
Buy one of these.http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-mi ... 67143.htmlJoseSnow wrote:Initially it was fresh but we dried them. I am not sure tho cause maybe they got moisture in the winter... How do you check the moister porcentage of the wood twizz??
Thanks for the call TroubleMaker!
So here is a pictutre of what is left from the core bonded with the fiberglass and basematerial. As you can see, it seems that just the outside part of the core bonded with the base but the wood core couldnt hold toghether, this is why we think the core mught be to soft....
Here is a picture:
So here is a pictutre of what is left from the core bonded with the fiberglass and basematerial. As you can see, it seems that just the outside part of the core bonded with the base but the wood core couldnt hold toghether, this is why we think the core mught be to soft....
Here is a picture: