Twizz 2012/2013
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
I am using parchment paper on the top, I'll try out the spray glue on the cassette for the next ski, but do you think that's really causing the wrinkles in the top? They seem like big wrinkles to just be caused by the parchment paper... I didn't really notice if the parchment was wrinkled there or not, I'm always too excited pulling skis out. It's like christmas and I rip into everything as fast as I can!
Ditch the parchment paper on the top aluminium layer Twizz
Good release wax and by the time you put the big rectangle of topsheet on there you hardly ever get any epoxy on the top aluminium layer anyway (and any that gets on there is peripheral to where the actual ski is).
Good release wax and by the time you put the big rectangle of topsheet on there you hardly ever get any epoxy on the top aluminium layer anyway (and any that gets on there is peripheral to where the actual ski is).
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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- Location: Western Mass, USA
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
So... ~7 years ago or so, before I worked at Boeing, when I was still in school, I used to go to the Boeing surplus store all the time and buy random crap. One time I bought a slab of nomex aerospace-grade honeycomb for cheap. It sat around for years with no project with a good use for it, and went mostly forgotten.
Until now... I noticed the honeycomb sitting on a shelf buried under some stuff in my shop.
This is going to be awesome. More to come in the next few days
Until now... I noticed the honeycomb sitting on a shelf buried under some stuff in my shop.
This is going to be awesome. More to come in the next few days
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
Yes the store closed a few years ago, it was pretty sad. They still have an online surplus deal with auctions, much like ebay. But it doesn't have the small stuff that made the store so much fun (like drill bits and end mills by the pound, cheap!)
https://active.boeing.com/assocproducts ... /Index.cfm
No comment on the engines Thats a production issue, I only deal with the experimental airplanes, once we certify them it's someone else's problem
https://active.boeing.com/assocproducts ... /Index.cfm
No comment on the engines Thats a production issue, I only deal with the experimental airplanes, once we certify them it's someone else's problem
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
So for the skis, here is what I am planning...
I am going to make two pairs of mostly identical skis (identical in shape/size). One pair will be my normal processes, with a solid bamboo core and triax fiberglass top and bottom.
For the second pair I am going to cut out most of the core, leaving just a thin edge on the outside to glue the sidewalls to, and two bits for the binding inserts. All of the area I'm removing will be replaced with the honeycomb, and then the bamboo and honeycomb will be profiled on the CNC at the same time.
I'm then going to sheet the top and the bottom of the bamboo/honeycomb core with some bamboo veneer I have. This is just to keep the honeycomb from filling with epoxy during the layup. Then it's just a normal layup.
Since I'm removing so much bamboo, I'm losing a lot of stiffness. I'm trying to figure out if I want to make that up with a thicker core, additional fiberglass, or just some uni carbon. Doing some math, it looks like increasing the middle of my core from 12mm to 14.5mm, all else the same, will give me just about the exact same stiffness. That might be the route I go, adding any more composites just adds weight.
My only concern is the veneer adhesion to the honeycomb. I'm worried about having it come apart after landing on the tails hard (I had that happen with some horizontal grain bamboo in a pair once). I'm not sure if there is really any way around that though... you're gluing onto the edge of the honeycomb, which is basically paper, so there's hardly any surface area for a good mechanical bond.
I am going to make two pairs of mostly identical skis (identical in shape/size). One pair will be my normal processes, with a solid bamboo core and triax fiberglass top and bottom.
For the second pair I am going to cut out most of the core, leaving just a thin edge on the outside to glue the sidewalls to, and two bits for the binding inserts. All of the area I'm removing will be replaced with the honeycomb, and then the bamboo and honeycomb will be profiled on the CNC at the same time.
I'm then going to sheet the top and the bottom of the bamboo/honeycomb core with some bamboo veneer I have. This is just to keep the honeycomb from filling with epoxy during the layup. Then it's just a normal layup.
Since I'm removing so much bamboo, I'm losing a lot of stiffness. I'm trying to figure out if I want to make that up with a thicker core, additional fiberglass, or just some uni carbon. Doing some math, it looks like increasing the middle of my core from 12mm to 14.5mm, all else the same, will give me just about the exact same stiffness. That might be the route I go, adding any more composites just adds weight.
My only concern is the veneer adhesion to the honeycomb. I'm worried about having it come apart after landing on the tails hard (I had that happen with some horizontal grain bamboo in a pair once). I'm not sure if there is really any way around that though... you're gluing onto the edge of the honeycomb, which is basically paper, so there's hardly any surface area for a good mechanical bond.
- MontuckyMadman
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- Posts: 2337
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
I made a "test core" yesterday. Just a single bamboo flooring board (~4" wide). I had the CNC cut out 3 large areas, leaving two small areas near the middle for the binding inserts.
I cut out some honeycomb, put it in those holes, then epoxied the whole thing to some bamboo veneer (using supersap). After it cured, I stuck it back in the CNC and cut the profile. This worked ok, but at the tips where it was down to 2mm some of the honeycomb ripped out.
After profiling I epoxied another layer of veneer on the top. It's cool, cause it just looks like a solid piece of bamboo, but it weighs hardly anything. BUT, just a little bit of flexing, and you can hear the bond breaking all over the place, and the veneer starts getting lots of ripples. Just what I feared. Back to the drawing board - maybe foam would be easier than honeycomb
I cut out some honeycomb, put it in those holes, then epoxied the whole thing to some bamboo veneer (using supersap). After it cured, I stuck it back in the CNC and cut the profile. This worked ok, but at the tips where it was down to 2mm some of the honeycomb ripped out.
After profiling I epoxied another layer of veneer on the top. It's cool, cause it just looks like a solid piece of bamboo, but it weighs hardly anything. BUT, just a little bit of flexing, and you can hear the bond breaking all over the place, and the veneer starts getting lots of ripples. Just what I feared. Back to the drawing board - maybe foam would be easier than honeycomb
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA