Is it even possible...

[SniveliusMaximus]

Obvious noob here (look at that pristine post count!) but I was brought here with a question in mind...

Would it be possible to add an extra topsheet layer to skis that are already complete? Something that would provide protection and add durability/looks to either custom or commercial skis?

Backstory: I'm bumming around on my old pair of Salomon 1080 spaceframes, and yes, they're 10 years old at least and beat. I want to freshen them up, and I start talking to my brother about it. We think, what if there was a way to apply an additional topsheet with an updated, custom look? Could I put that over my existing ski? Then, what if we used something that added a practical benefit and not just style? Maybe a kevlar top to protect the ski, or nylon... whatever.

Basically, I'm way out of my element. From the few days I've spent looking around, I can see y'all know what you're talking about, and understand the ins and outs of skis, so to speak.

Is this something that would essentially have to be done before adding bindings? Or is it just a pipe dream, never to see the light of day?




(Side note: I came here hoping to glean some topsheet knowledge. Now I spend my days at work thinking how I could convince my wife to convert the garage into a workshop and start cranking out skis for friends/family. Thanks, I think.)

[twizzstyle]

You bet! This is cake.

(but since you're now a member of the forum, good luck backing out. You will find a way to convince the wife, and you will get sucked in... you've been warned. It's a tough, and expensive, addiction to break)

A wise man (Brazen on here) once described ski/snowboard building with this picture:



So to your original question: this is very easy, and a cool way to freshen up old crappy skis. If you're going to do it, I think it's worth getting some graphics sublimated (there are three suppliers that I know of that will do one-offs for the home-builders... CODA Boards, SnowboardMaterials.com, and Miller Studios). Cost will be about $60 plus or minus a bit for a sublimated topsheet.

Then you just need to scuff up your current skis with some sand paper, epoxy them, put the new topsheet on, and vacuum bag them. I'm not sure I would add any new composite layers, as that might be detrimental to how the ski performs. Adding a topsheet should have negligible effect on the ski's performance.

The only thing to consider is binding mounting. If the skis already have bindings, they should be mounted in new holes. The old holes will just fill with epoxy, that's fine. When you re-mount them they'll have to be just forward or just aft, so you'll need a way of knowing exactly where the old holes are.

I wouldn't even worry about getting epoxy on the edges/base, cause you can grind that off (if you have a shop willing to do that for you... I have a grinder at home so I'd just do it myself...)

[skidesmond]

Looks like we got us a new member!

Start converting the garage.... It's easier to ask for forgivness than for permission..

[SniveliusMaximus]

A couple of logistics questions... How much will moving the binding holes affect ski performance? Say I had my bindings set so my boots were dead center for spins or whatever... Is moving them 1/2 inch going to really matter?

What about skis with raised or irregular top sheet depths? The salomons aren't flat on top... I guess the process will allow for that?

Thanks.

[twizzstyle]

The vacuum bagging should suck the material into any irregularities in the top of the ski, but it depends on the material. I feel like the nylon from Miller studios would do better at that than pbt, but that's purely a guess. The material feels softer and more pliable to me. Some heat would help it form to any weird shapes too.

If you're mounted dead center, moving it back 1/2" will only make things better. Put it back where it's supposed to be (don't worry, I used to center mount my skis too, as I've become less of a park rat over the years it's been moving back to normal)

[MontuckyMadman]

Why could u not just remount same spot? Just drill out the epoxy or fill with hot glue prior and drill out? Its all good

[SniveliusMaximus]

Would drilling in the same spot provide enough "grip" for the screws, so to speak?

[MontuckyMadman]

depends how fat you are, depends if the binding was epoxied in initially and you rip out a bunch of core.
Depends if you go inverted or 70mph.
depends on if a binding fail will lead to a serious accident.
depends how good your health insurance is.
I do it for mine but not someone else.
Pre fill holes with wood pulp and epoxy mixture drill and screw should be as solid as core.
allot of ways to do this.