pneumatic rams for tip and ttail

For discussions related to designing and making ski/snowboard-building equipment, such as presses, core profilers, edge benders, etc.

Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp

Post Reply
ggardner90
Posts: 146
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:02 am
Location: Salt Lake
Contact:

pneumatic rams for tip and ttail

Post by ggardner90 »

i was wondering what the best way to install the pneumatic rams that on3p uses to increase psi on the tip and tail section. rght now i have shimmed my cat track with bamboo but i dont think that it is thebest way to do it. i am super interested in the rams
amidnightproject
Posts: 378
Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:59 am
Location: Portland Area, Maine
Contact:

Post by amidnightproject »

I have some. Best way is to run a rod through your cat track where you need the pressure and use the threaded connecters you can get for the rams

However: you shouldn't need to use the rams. Means your doing something wrong and can better your process elsewhere. I thought I needed them. Payed $200 in rams then made some process and mold changes and no longer need em. Now they want a 30% restock fee so i said screw it and kept em. Going to make a pneumatic can crusher ;)
SkiTheNortheast
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:04 pm
Location: New Hampshire

Post by SkiTheNortheast »

how do you get the ends properly pressed if you have a tip to tail core, without using rams?
amidnightproject
Posts: 378
Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:59 am
Location: Portland Area, Maine
Contact:

Post by amidnightproject »

I just redid my top mold to be better and the problem went away before I even had to use the rams.

** edit**

I'm also pressing at 78-80 psi now.
SkiTheNortheast
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:04 pm
Location: New Hampshire

Post by SkiTheNortheast »

should I just make my top mold as tightly fitting as possible?
skidesmond
Posts: 2338
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
Location: Western Mass, USA
Contact:

Post by skidesmond »

Yes, your molds should be as accurate as possible and match your bottom mold. I'm shimming my top mold a little bit and it's working fine. Annoys me that I have to do that but, that's a different story.
doughboyshredder
Posts: 1354
Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm

Post by doughboyshredder »

Also, as has been mentioned, part of the issue comes from the hose trying to straighten out. If you make your tip and tail molds in such a way that the hose doesn't have the ability to straighten out at the ends, that will help.

And 80PSI helps a lot.
User avatar
threeninethree
Posts: 172
Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 8:11 pm
Location: Massachusetts

Post by threeninethree »

I have done what DBS points out by stacking 2x4's behind the tip/tail molds to force the hose to continue the curve. This will alow you to not have to cut new molds.
~ Matt
Post Reply