Section8 2011-2012
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
I know you have tried Formica. Look at the link again, it tells you what type of paper they use, 'transparent layer of alpha cellulose paper'. It may not be available commercially, but it may help suppliers understand your needs.
If you have someone printing T-Shirts locally, then you have access to dye sublimation at the size you need. E-mail your design over if you like and I will send you some prints ... If no-one in the US will offer to test your HPL for sublimation, then send me that too and I'll get it done for you.
For future reference, this is a simple controller you could use http://www.vego.nl/kemo/11/11.htm. If your HPL sublimates, I'll check whether I have a suitable heater gathering dust - I think I might have something A4 size, sound like a plan?
If you have someone printing T-Shirts locally, then you have access to dye sublimation at the size you need. E-mail your design over if you like and I will send you some prints ... If no-one in the US will offer to test your HPL for sublimation, then send me that too and I'll get it done for you.
For future reference, this is a simple controller you could use http://www.vego.nl/kemo/11/11.htm. If your HPL sublimates, I'll check whether I have a suitable heater gathering dust - I think I might have something A4 size, sound like a plan?
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- Location: Western Mass, USA
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Ok, Rich gottcha, read the article a little closer.... Finding alpha cellulose paper is easy, but transparent alpha cellulose paper might be a bigger challenge, but that's what the internet is for Finding a local T-shirt printer is no problem.
I think part of the problem I had with the packaging labels, vellum vs rice paper, is the ink is absorbed by the rice paper and doesn't run when coated w/ LPU. But I'm assuming the ink on the packaging label and vellum doesn't penetrate and instead sits on top of the paper, the LPU dissolved the ink and it ran.
I'll see if I can find transparent alpha cellulose paper and use that for personalizing the ski. The vinyl sticker is ok for now. May switch to screen printing at a later time (when I run out of stickers).
Still need to try the water-slide paper too.
Thanks for the offers!
I think part of the problem I had with the packaging labels, vellum vs rice paper, is the ink is absorbed by the rice paper and doesn't run when coated w/ LPU. But I'm assuming the ink on the packaging label and vellum doesn't penetrate and instead sits on top of the paper, the LPU dissolved the ink and it ran.
I'll see if I can find transparent alpha cellulose paper and use that for personalizing the ski. The vinyl sticker is ok for now. May switch to screen printing at a later time (when I run out of stickers).
Still need to try the water-slide paper too.
Thanks for the offers!
- MontuckyMadman
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- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
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- Posts: 2337
- Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
- Location: Western Mass, USA
- Contact:
Great memory Richuk. Yes, I have about 20 heaters from Hi-heat. Been using them for about 6 years and have never had a failure. Hard to beat the prices on the 'catalog' heaters (they're short'ish, but I don't use full length heaters in my presses), and they're usually delivered within 2 days after I place an order.
G-man
G-man
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- Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
- Location: Western Mass, USA
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I noticed I haven't posted here in a while but I have been busy making skis and following the work of the rest of the crew here with the great work that's going on in this forum.
I have one ski in the works and another I'll be starting in a few days. Also I have a friend whose son is building a long board for a school project I volunteered my press to press his long board. We'll be pressing that tomorrow night.
I'll post pics of the latest build tomorrow. Stay tuned.
I have one ski in the works and another I'll be starting in a few days. Also I have a friend whose son is building a long board for a school project I volunteered my press to press his long board. We'll be pressing that tomorrow night.
I'll post pics of the latest build tomorrow. Stay tuned.
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- Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
- Location: Western Mass, USA
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I made this ski for teaching. Had some fun with the graphics. It's on the soft side and is a design I've used many times before. Here's some specs:
168cm, 3-10-3, 124-72-108
core - maple, ash, douglas fir
tip fill - 3mm of ash veneer
fg - 19 oz
epoxy - QCM
Fabric topsheet - Joannes Fabric
System 3 linear polyurethane
btw - started a blog for this build also. It has some more details if you're interest. http://desmondcustomskis.blogspot.com/
Materials used for the build:
Wood Core:
The binding area is ash, middle area in front and behind the binding area is douglas fir and the side wall is maple.
The layup was typical as my other builds.
Pics of the skis hot off the press:
Initially they look good.
tails good:
Tips are good here but later they started pulling away and I had to fix them. I forgot to prebend the tips (it's always something!). The epoxy is still pliable if you reheat it at this point. So I carefully added a little bit more of epoxy and used a heat gun to soften up the tip a little bit and used C-clamps and mini-clamps to fasten the edge back on. Holding fine now.
Special ingredient :-)
Pics with the flashing removed and ready for poly:
The next few days will be spent applying poly and cleaning the bases, then mount the bindings. Hope to test them out next weekend.
I just found out my Sno-CadX is broken (argh!)
168cm, 3-10-3, 124-72-108
core - maple, ash, douglas fir
tip fill - 3mm of ash veneer
fg - 19 oz
epoxy - QCM
Fabric topsheet - Joannes Fabric
System 3 linear polyurethane
btw - started a blog for this build also. It has some more details if you're interest. http://desmondcustomskis.blogspot.com/
Materials used for the build:
Wood Core:
The binding area is ash, middle area in front and behind the binding area is douglas fir and the side wall is maple.
The layup was typical as my other builds.
Pics of the skis hot off the press:
Initially they look good.
tails good:
Tips are good here but later they started pulling away and I had to fix them. I forgot to prebend the tips (it's always something!). The epoxy is still pliable if you reheat it at this point. So I carefully added a little bit more of epoxy and used a heat gun to soften up the tip a little bit and used C-clamps and mini-clamps to fasten the edge back on. Holding fine now.
Special ingredient :-)
Pics with the flashing removed and ready for poly:
The next few days will be spent applying poly and cleaning the bases, then mount the bindings. Hope to test them out next weekend.
I just found out my Sno-CadX is broken (argh!)