Welcome aboard the Snow Boat

[carnold]

Hi, Well.... I got to thinking the other day after reading the Bataleon web site that a snowboard shaped a little like a boat would be fun to make and if I’m lucky to ride as well. So here goes I’m off to build a snow boat and though that I’d share how horribly wrong it all goes so I’m not crying alone after I hit the first patch of ice and land in a snowgum with my head where my arse (that’s ‘ass’ for those of you reading in the USA) should be.

Here’s my design specs:-

1. 1570mm length – Which is my normal ride.
2. A bit wider that my normal build. 315mm at the widest approx.
3. Side cut radius less than normal about 7500mm I’m used to about 8000mm
4. Core from 1.6 – 7.0 – 6.2 – 7.0 – 1.6 ish.
5. Camber of 15 mm along the centre line
6. Base in 5 ‘facets’ – like a plywood dingy.
7. 740 gsm triax
8. Veneer top sheet with timber edges.
9. Paulowina core with end grain for insert sections.

My thinking is a little like this.....Stick with a known length, thickness, camber, mix of materials, glass weight but make the changes to the base profile. My plan is to have a fairly standard cambered centre section and then have two raised sections along the length. The outer of the 2 raise sections will be approx 5mm raised from the centre section at the widest point of the board but flat across the centre. The second (working from the edge towards the centre) will be raised about 2mm from the centre section at the tips only remaining flat across the centre. The blend point from section to section will be concentric with the edge making a slightly larger radius for each from the previous edge. This will create a shape that is a bit like a plywood boat at the ends changing to flat in the centre.
The benefit, other than giving me new things to play with, will be to have 2 additional ‘hard chines’ (boat building terminology for the lines made by the joining of the faces) or contours in the base. Hopefully this should make for fast edge to edge transitions, less edge catches, some new dynamics from a convex flex pattern, and all that other marketing rubbish.....
The downside will be a more difficult to grind the base, possible reduced edge hold and lots of other unknown performance issues.
But I’m going to give it a go and see what happens. I just can’t accept that the best base shape for something as complex as a snow covered hill is flat from side to side. There is nothing flat about mountains so why make flat boards....unless of course they are easier, cheaper or just the way it’s always being done.

A view of the base

And looking from the front.
I’ll try to keep up the posts...... but it could be a bit hit and miss with the posting. C.

[chrismp]

i like how bataleon boards ride
what type of press are you going to use? cnc'd molds?

[Damon]

Yeah Bataleons were pretty popular up here this year. We would occasionally put beginners out on em so they'd learn rolling from edge to edge, and I think it was pretty effective. You will certainly lose some edge hold, especially on hard stuff.

From a design standpoint, I think they have a little bit more than 2mm from center to edge, but I've never measured it. Grinding is certainly more tricky, I'd use a really tough base (4000 series) that holds a structure longer. They don't have an extremely soft transition from the center to the edge, there is a fairly defined ridge (I don't know if you've seen their boards).

[carnold]

Hi

Chris asked...

what type of press are you going to use? cnc'd molds?

At work we have an old twin screw press for veneering small panels. I'm planning to use that with CNC'd M+F molds and a few clamps on the ends of the molds. It's all a bit rough but should give me plenty of pressure and good distribution of force on the baord.
It’s kind of doing my head in to work out the modelling for the whole thing but should get there soon. I’ve revised my plan a bit and am now working on having the centre of the board in 5 facets as well. (not flat) That’ll mean that there are 5 facets making up the base. The centre a similar shape to a skinny snowboard and the outer 2 facets on each side will be parallel to the edge and 30-35 mm wide. The lift in the centre will be .4mm at middle chine and 1.2mm at the edge. At the widest point near the tip/tail the lift will be 2mm middle chine and 6mm at the edge. I think that this will create 3 ‘edges’ that’ll engage the surface progressively as the board is edged harder to the heel or toe.
Damon asked:

(I don't know if you've seen their boards).

No I’ve never seen a real live one. Just reading on the www I had a look at some Forum boards recently they have ‘butter cup’ and some other convex under boot things happening . All I’m doing is making the raised edge the whole length of the board...
Surley that'll create the worlds best ever any condition board and make my riding the stuff of ledgend.... Or not (shrug)
C.

[carnold]

Hi
Here’s the core taking shape.

Clamping up the endgrain sections.

The whole core in the clamps.
My last effort was a 100% Paulowina core with an extra layer of glass under the heads of the inserts but there is some evidence of insert suck so this time I’m making up end grain inserts for the inserts. I’d go for a total end grain core but that’d be too much mucking about. So I have a 250mm x 80 mm section for each of the insert packs and then the rest is normal strips. This is the glue up process. I’m using Titebond for the core as it’s fast setting and easy to use. I have used 5 minute (rapid cure) epoxy before but it’s expensive and by me estimation not really necessary. C.

[Brazen]

Titebond works great...and those clamps? They work 100% better if you turn them horizontally.


I'm just sayin...

[carnold]

Hi

:
Titebond works great...and those clamps? They work 100% better if you turn them horizontally.

Those clamps were the closest thing to hand for a poorly prepared glue up So I had a board underneath and the clamps like in the photos to stop the bar bending and a few spring clamps along the sides. With the clamps laying flat the whole thing was cupping rather badly even with the spring clamps. Worked out OK so no harm done. C.