Press/Mold Rib Width?

For discussions related to designing and making ski/snowboard-building equipment, such as presses, core profilers, edge benders, etc.

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EricW
Posts: 225
Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 2:50 pm
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin

Post by EricW »

I don't like plunge routers unless I'm mortising something. Granted I do like that you can raise the bit into the base when you're done with your cut, which is a really nice safety feature. Given that I'll be using a router bridge, the fine adjustment on the fixed base is a lot more appealing for my first router use for production.

I had a PC fixed/plunge kit but I sold it a while back. It was a bit underpowered and wouldn't handle a surfacing bit anyway.
MadRussian
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:32 pm
Location: USA

Post by MadRussian »

G-man wrote:Currently, I'm up to 21 different routers. I use each one for a single dedicated ski building task. I use everything from trim routers all the way up to big 3 1/2hp routers that are mounted to shaper tables and CNC machines. As I move a ski down the assemble line, all I have to do is reach up and pull down the router that is already set up for that particular operation. So, I have quite a lot of experience with routers. That being the case, if I were to be in a position where I was needing to limit myself to just one router for the entire process of building a ski or snowboard, I would get a 1 1/2 (ish) hp, variable speed, plunge router. A plunge router is a must (regardless if you're a FOG or a FYG) if you are going to be using template guide bushings. Most folks don't even know how to use guide bushings, but they are one of the most valuable tools one can use for ski building. Variable speed is an absolute must if you are cutting plastics or running large cutters. If you haven't tried cutting at various speeds, you just don't know what you are missing out on, in terms of cut quality. Single speed routers cut way too fast for most jobs, and end up burning, shredding, or melting the work material. Running larger cutters at much slower speeds allows the router to run MUCH smoother, thus vastly increasing the router's bearing life. Yes, plunge and variable speed routers cost more, but I feel it's really worth while to save up the router funds for a little longer in order to get a tool that will do so much more for you in the long run. I have about every brand of router made, and my very favorite router, by far, is a Dewalt 2 1/4 hp plunge/variable speed router (model DW 621). I have two of them, and they are both about 10 years old, and in addition to building skis, one of them made all the siding and trim (inside and outside) for my house and a neighbor's house, and it's still running strong.

G-man
thank you G-man.
Knowing nothing about routers I took your advice and finally got myself 621 router :) this router not easy to find in good condition for price under $150...took me a while.

Additional information on DW621 for those who looking to buy router: http://patwarner.com/dw621.htm
strangesnowboarding
Posts: 133
Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 2:26 pm

Post by strangesnowboarding »

i dont have a lot of info on routers, i have just been finding the cheapest used router on craigslsit and they have been getting the job done well. i do wish that i had a finish router (hand size) to work with the tip and tail better. and i cant wait for the CNC to be up and operational.

i built a spit (and have another one waiting for graphics), nothing too extreme. expect to spend as much time on it as you would spend on a pair of skis (4 edges, 4 sidewalls, 2 cores). the hardest part was the setup for the binding hardware. go slow, measure 5 times (or more) and consider all the materials that will change the dimensions of the board (sidewall, edge). i pressed the two side by side on one sheet of glass, worked pretty well.
heres my thread, not as much tec info but some stuff that might be helpfull.
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2925

tom
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