Insert suck

[nearls]

Built a board with a spruce core and I'm starting to get quite deep dimples under the binding inserts (binding suck). Starting on a second board and want to keep with the same core. Short of adding a hardwood strip to the core for the inserts do I have any other options? Add some glass above or below maybe?

[Brazen]

I exactly cut the insert depth in with a cnc, and put a rectangle of kevlar over the base of the inserts during layup. I still get a little dimple after a few months.

How do you like the spruce for a core? I've been thinking about aviation grade sitka for cores...

[Brazen]

And I found these...

[nearls]

$147!! Will it help with insert suck?

The kevlar goes over the bottom of the t-nuts? What if I used glass and cut holes for the stem of the the t-nut to go through the cloth? Worth the effort, would I see much difference?

I'm using spruce veneer, I believe it's sitka. Vertical grain, 1.2mm, and clear. It's nice looking stuff. I have some piece's right now that are 15" by 8' no joints.

Here is the source:

http://www.bcveneer.com/index1.html

[Brazen]

The nuts go through the kevlar. I'm thinking about adding a rectangle of vds on this next round of experimental boards. And those things need to be hanging out of your pants on EVERY lift, right? I bet no one would see the dimples.

[Richuk]

Watch this: http://www.swellpanik.com/uk/

[nearls]

Doesn't look like there is any recess to allow for the thickness of the cloth. Don't suppose it's needed.

[Richuk]

Believe it is neoprene

[twizzstyle]

Here's what I do with great results (and really easy).

I drill the shoulder (for lack of the correct term) for the insert with a 3/4" forstner bit, with the stop on my drill press set for the right depth so that when the insert is in the top of it is flush with the top of the core. Then I drill the smaller hole for the skinny part of the insert. Now with the insert in, depending on core thickness, I have a few millimeters of space to fill or I'd get dimples.



I use a 3/4" hole saw and left over core cutoffs after profiling to cut a bunch of small discs.



I epoxy those and the inserts into the core, and once cured I just sand them down until flush.

[Brazen]

Very elegant solution. I've personally always felt that this is one of the very critical areas strength-wise though and would be loathe to leave a heat cured system behind in favor of it. It's genius though

[twizzstyle]

Very elegant solution. I've personally always felt that this is one of the very critical areas strength-wise though and would be loathe to leave a heat cured system behind in favor of it. It's genius though

Alright you've lost me entirely

[Brazen]

Room temperature cured epoxy is inferior in strength to heat cured epoxy. Unless you're blanket-wrapping the fix for the inserts, then, in my opinion, you've weakened a CRITICAL bond area. But it's beautiful I guess my solution is exact depth (we'll see).

[Brazen]

I have some stainless-steel shim washers coming this week. I think that's what I'm going to try next.

[knightsofnii]

jb-weld, and a patch of duct tape

we recently just hammered our inserts thru some carbon/kevlar weave, and named it RDST, or Really Doesnt Suck Technology, because Shane can still yoink an insert with standard DST. But then he proceeded to do the same to five more boards, burton's, k2's, you name it.

[doughboyshredder]

Few things.

I wet out the core and then hammer the inserts through a square of carbon fiber. This is essential IMO. I prefer carbon as it is the strongest of all the various reinforcements we use. I also use a square of vds between the bottom of the inserts and the bottom glass. I also try and use the right size insert so that the insert sits above the top of the core a little bit, and pushes through the top layer of glass when pressed.

None of my boards have ever experienced insert suck.

Any board built with the inserts hammered in to the core dry will experience insert suck. Of course, that's how most mass produced boards are built.