cattracks
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cattracks
I'm going to buy steel for cattracks. So far my plans to get 3/4x3/4 14g.
few questions:
1. does it worse to go 1/2x1 14g instead?
2. if I go with 3/4x3/4 in 16 gauge will it be to thin?
3.how about 1/2x1 in 16g will this work?
4. somewhere I saw pictures with 2 cattracks one above and one below with aluminum cassette. What is benefits for second cattracks? Does it worse to have second cattracks?
few questions:
1. does it worse to go 1/2x1 14g instead?
2. if I go with 3/4x3/4 in 16 gauge will it be to thin?
3.how about 1/2x1 in 16g will this work?
4. somewhere I saw pictures with 2 cattracks one above and one below with aluminum cassette. What is benefits for second cattracks? Does it worse to have second cattracks?
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- MontuckyMadman
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- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
some home made camber adjustment presess like doughboyshredder built will have a lower cattrack for big camber changes.
i feel al is necessary because the steel will hold a ton of heat, and in order to keep the top part as light as possible to hold the top mold and bladders and sheet out of the way.
i feel al is necessary because the steel will hold a ton of heat, and in order to keep the top part as light as possible to hold the top mold and bladders and sheet out of the way.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
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richuk,
not to hijack
after the initial cure (at under 200F) for the required time period, cold water is flushed through the cat track. much like a radiator. this allows the board to cure to room temp (or a handling temp) in a matter of minutes versus the 4-6 hours that it would normally take to get the press and board back to temp. this allows for production timetables (30min layup, 60minish ramp and cure and at most 30 more for cooling) versus the one a day setup. we can press up to 3 a day in the same machine and they really only sit for 5 days in a postcure before we take them out riding. rocker/camber "sag" has been minimal even after many days on snow.
i agree with using alum as well, far superior.
not to hijack
after the initial cure (at under 200F) for the required time period, cold water is flushed through the cat track. much like a radiator. this allows the board to cure to room temp (or a handling temp) in a matter of minutes versus the 4-6 hours that it would normally take to get the press and board back to temp. this allows for production timetables (30min layup, 60minish ramp and cure and at most 30 more for cooling) versus the one a day setup. we can press up to 3 a day in the same machine and they really only sit for 5 days in a postcure before we take them out riding. rocker/camber "sag" has been minimal even after many days on snow.
i agree with using alum as well, far superior.
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- Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:32 pm
- Location: USA
why aluminum superior? I read where people recommend steel cattracksstrangesnowboarding wrote:richuk,
i agree with using alum as well, far superior.
bottom cattracks should help eliminate imperfection in bottom mold.
currently I have no plans for heat except heated enclosure and bottom cattracks should help in air circulation.
MR - I think you have said before that you insulate for a living, so your heat box will be great and steel might be the way to go, if you want to maximise the transfer of heat into the cassette.
I suspect Strange has a better understanding of the issue - but one of the determining factor for me was heat transfer: cat-track to hose. It needs to be kept low when processing at higher temps, hence AL was a good choice. I could have chosen, bigger and thicker, but I've compensated using a piece of hardboard. This is easy to do because AL is lighter than steel, which works with my set up - bungee and not springs. If I reduce my cycle time going forward, then this will reduce the amount of heat transfer. This is stuff I have learnt, rather than understanding from the get go.
Btw, you might want to consider what is the optimum size and gauge of the square hollows used to maximise the effect you will be looking for?
I suspect Strange has a better understanding of the issue - but one of the determining factor for me was heat transfer: cat-track to hose. It needs to be kept low when processing at higher temps, hence AL was a good choice. I could have chosen, bigger and thicker, but I've compensated using a piece of hardboard. This is easy to do because AL is lighter than steel, which works with my set up - bungee and not springs. If I reduce my cycle time going forward, then this will reduce the amount of heat transfer. This is stuff I have learnt, rather than understanding from the get go.
Btw, you might want to consider what is the optimum size and gauge of the square hollows used to maximise the effect you will be looking for?
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- Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:32 pm
- Location: USA
this is exactly my idea and double cat-tracks should distributed heat evenlyRichuk wrote:MR - I think you have said before that you insulate for a living, so your heat box will be great and steel might be the way to go, if you want to maximise the transfer of heat into the cassette.?
I willbe using a room temperature cure epoxy and have product to help minimize heat loss hereRichuk wrote:but one of the determining factor for me was heat transfer: cat-track to hose.
lol I'm not a designer don't know what to say here. Usually I built from materials available to me. In this case 3/4 or 1" square stock item and available,1/2x1or 3/4 my not be stock item and special order usually cost more. What to think is better 3/4 square or 1/2x1or 3/4.Richuk wrote:Btw, you might want to consider what is the optimum size and gauge of the square hollows used to maximise the effect you will be looking for?
1/2x1 may not be stable in bottom cat-tracks