POLYURETHANE SIDEWALLS! ...?
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POLYURETHANE SIDEWALLS! ...?
THere probably is a thread for this already, but the search function suck and the google doesnt bring anything up;
Has anyone used PolyUrethane sidewalls yet? If so, how did bonding, and procedure go? and suppliers?
Has anyone used PolyUrethane sidewalls yet? If so, how did bonding, and procedure go? and suppliers?
Re: POLYURETHANE SIDEWALLS! ...?
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=polyurethane+sidew ... m%2Fphpbb2a.badner wrote:THere probably is a thread for this already, but the search function suck and the google doesnt bring anything up;
no thread for this... :(
can elaborate a little bit more on the process to create the urethane sidewall?
do you just pour urethane resin onto the side of the core like this : http://www.skibuilders.com/howto/skicon/sidewalls.shtml ... ? does it stick?
can elaborate a little bit more on the process to create the urethane sidewall?
do you just pour urethane resin onto the side of the core like this : http://www.skibuilders.com/howto/skicon/sidewalls.shtml ... ? does it stick?
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
Polyurethane sidewalls
Hi, my reaconing is polyurethane sidewalls are the way to go, that said I have not made a single ski or board yet so this is just my opinion based on other eexperience and research.
Polyurethane sticks like shit to a blanket (timber and epoxy), its easily poured into a channel. The key is to chose the correct material as there are so many grades of polyurethane for so many purposes. Try a waterclear version, its tough as - used for car and 4x4 suspension bushes. This can be tinted and comes in many hardnesses so a little trial and error might be needed there.
Cheers
Polyurethane sticks like shit to a blanket (timber and epoxy), its easily poured into a channel. The key is to chose the correct material as there are so many grades of polyurethane for so many purposes. Try a waterclear version, its tough as - used for car and 4x4 suspension bushes. This can be tinted and comes in many hardnesses so a little trial and error might be needed there.
Cheers
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
hey chris
do you route the channel in the side of your cores after profiling or before?
Something like a router bit for making the groove of a tongue and groove joint, or a slot cutter? then make a dam on the upper and lower side the whole length of the core and pour it in?
do you route the channel in the side of your cores after profiling or before?
Something like a router bit for making the groove of a tongue and groove joint, or a slot cutter? then make a dam on the upper and lower side the whole length of the core and pour it in?
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
sidewalls
my plan is to pour the sidewall before profiling, I'm using a 3hp router with 40mm 2 flute cutter same as Mike Magruder uses, so I hope it cuts the polyurethane ok it should. My polyurethane is 90A hardness water clear , so hopefully although its pretty firm it should cut well. This to me seems far far easier than using UHMWPE with no real disadvantages, time and results will tell eh? I'm finally pretty close to my first build, my profiles are being cncd right now and materials all coming, my profiling table is 1/2 built and is hopefully going to leap forward in the next 3 weeks.......yeah right! cheers
oh yeah I mean to say Tim, I am not pouring it into a slot in the side of the core but into a full depth channel in the top face following the sidewall end to end curvature approx -5mm inward and +2 outward, roughly....... cheers, Rich
looking back in the forum it looks like this is the trough method, but using polyurethane instead of epoxy means a durable well stuck sidewall with less hassle.......
oh yeah I mean to say Tim, I am not pouring it into a slot in the side of the core but into a full depth channel in the top face following the sidewall end to end curvature approx -5mm inward and +2 outward, roughly....... cheers, Rich
looking back in the forum it looks like this is the trough method, but using polyurethane instead of epoxy means a durable well stuck sidewall with less hassle.......
Last edited by richie on Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
cold and brittle
sure will be watching for that, although the specs looked pretty good when I checked it out a while back, will let you know
cheers
cheers
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
the stuff we use is called Adiprene LF950A with the E300 hardener. it has outstanding properties even at really low temperatures. only downer is that it's a brownish color and pigments don't look as good as with a clear system.
what resin did you get, richie?
we router a board-shaped groove into our core blanks with a 1/2" straight two flute router bit. the PU-resin is then poured into the groove. the resin we use needs to cure for 16h at 100°C, that's what the hotbox i posted in another thread is for.
the cores are then planed on the underside until the sidewalls start to show. after that we cut the core profile into the upper side of the core.
that way you get a core with a seamless sidewall/tipspacer that sticks to the core really well.
i just wish the polyurethane wasn't that hard to machine...
what resin did you get, richie?
we router a board-shaped groove into our core blanks with a 1/2" straight two flute router bit. the PU-resin is then poured into the groove. the resin we use needs to cure for 16h at 100°C, that's what the hotbox i posted in another thread is for.
the cores are then planed on the underside until the sidewalls start to show. after that we cut the core profile into the upper side of the core.
that way you get a core with a seamless sidewall/tipspacer that sticks to the core really well.
i just wish the polyurethane wasn't that hard to machine...
the stuff I'm using.....
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2