Sidewall Removal

[Richuk]

I know this is kicking around somewhere on the web, but I'd thought I'd flag it up because it works so well.

I have been using this to shape the sidewall before the core goes into the cassette and then once the ski is out of the flash. UHMWPE allows the ski to pass the cutter without having to press the ski down on the bench. Took the photo's quickly - I usually have an mdf guard over the cutter.







I bought the dovetail cutter and had it sitting around for a while before realising how I could use it. Removed the bearing and then added the collar. The collar is steel pipe, you just drill the pipe out to the require diameter - a lot easier that you think. If the outer diameter is less than the diameter of the cutter (where it meets the collar) then you will create a stepped sidewall.

The collar is only mild steel, so it will flat spot when banged against the edge set, but to be honest it was user error. You need to pay attention to the where the cutter and collar meet. I would insert a washer between the two if I had it to hand, as it is showing signs of wear - sometimes the collar spins, sometimes it shows signs of being reluctant. Hoping to get hold of stainless steel - it's not an urgent issue.

I have used this for a while, it is CHEAP, really quick to use, I can see what I am doing and the finish is excellent.

If you go down this route, you need to pay serious attention to whether your router has sufficient plunge depth. You don't want the collar to limit the amount of shaft available to secure the cutter.

[knightsofnii]

Pretty neat but is it balanced?? I had a bit eject not due to balance but cuz of play in the router itself. But id imagine any wobble at rpm could cause the same failure.

[Richuk]

So it that why its not so popular ... makes sense. Its something I have looked at and will be keeping my eye on. The motor is set on number 3 and not 7 (max). The feed rate is medium and never forced - I don't remove the whole sidewall in one pass.

The mdf cover is a measure that should reduce the opportunity for UFO's. It looks something like this:



The internal diameter of the collar is close to the external diameter of the cutter. It spins, but nothing like a bearing.

[skidesmond]

Just be sure to never over extend the bit from the collet of the router too far. There's a reason they need to be seated properly, so they don't fly out. The spinning force alone can bend the shaft of the bit if it's not balanced and secure. I speak from experience. I posted it in the forum. Very scary.

Good idea to use a slow spinning rate.

http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 41&start=0

[Richuk]

I agree - in fact I can't emphasis this enough. The first photo tends to suggest that I can reduce the collar by a further 4 mm. The spindle is currently the same length as the collett, but more is better

I didn't have to sand these: