Split Board Inside edge question

[mountainbikeak]

First of all this website is pretty killer! I searched through everything I couldn't find the answer I was looking for, sorry if you've seen this question before! I want to install an inside edge on some DIY splitboards and I was hoping to get some advice from guys that work with this stuff more than me.
This is what I want the finished product to resemble: (would post a pic here) maybe check out customsplitboards dot com in the gallery section.

My idea is to take enough base material away to accept the edge but then I was thinking the best thing would be to route a groove just deep and wide enough below the base material so the board will take the edge wings and some VDS. I've brainstormed a couple ways to make the groove, (if this is even the way to do it) possibly with a router and router table and a 3 wing slotter? I guess the issue I see is with the camber of the board and keeping everything flat? Any thoughts here? Also what would be the best method and material to hold the edge and fill the sidewall back in, maybe like this: customsplitboards dot com this would be the venture board where you can see wood core for the sidewall.

In the end I think I would rather have a finished product like the second picture with most of the core showing.

I guess I need to post a couple before I can add URLS.

Thanks in advance!

[nearls]

I messed with routing out for a new inner sidewall but did not put in any edges. I used a small rigid trimmer with a 1/8 straight bit and the adjustable bearing assembly that comes with the router. Set the bearing away from the bit the same distance as the thickness of the base / topsheet material. Kind of tough to run the router on such a narrow edge. Just keep it straight as you can and keep the bearing tight to the board.

[skidesmond]

First of all this website is pretty killer! I searched through everything I couldn't find the answer I was looking for, sorry if you've seen this question before! I want to install an inside edge on some DIY splitboards and I was hoping to get some advice from guys that work with this stuff more than me.
This is what I want the finished product to resemble: (would post a pic here) maybe check out customsplitboards dot com in the gallery section.

My idea is to take enough base material away to accept the edge but then I was thinking the best thing would be to route a groove just deep and wide enough below the base material so the board will take the edge wings and some VDS. I've brainstormed a couple ways to make the groove, (if this is even the way to do it) possibly with a router and router table and a 3 wing slotter? I guess the issue I see is with the camber of the board and keeping everything flat? Any thoughts here? Also what would be the best method and material to hold the edge and fill the sidewall back in, maybe like this: customsplitboards dot com this would be the venture board where you can see wood core for the sidewall.

In the end I think I would rather have a finished product like the second picture with most of the core showing.

I guess I need to post a couple before I can add URLS.

Thanks in advance!

Perfect timing for this question, not sure I have the best answer but I've been toying around with making an all wood ski w/ metal edges. I used a slot cutting router bit and slid the metal edge into the slot and then added strips of p-tex base material on top of the edge as filler. As you know the base material is very thin and a router w/ a high speed sinning bit could easily ruin the base by tilting just a bit in any direction but flat. I used quick setting epoxy for my mock up. My slot bit cuts a rather wide slot, but there are thinner ones on the market (www.rockler.com)

Not sure I'd want to try this on my favorite set of skis/snowboard.

Here's a mock-up I made. I cut the slot and then sanded the bottom of the board to meet the edge. That's how I'd do it for real build. But you'd have to get the depth just right for the edge to sit properly on the base.

[mountainbikeak]

Thanks for the input and pictures. I was going to try and find a few boards on craigslist for cheap to try on but maybe I'll just get some base material and glue to the base of a 1x and try it that way? I wonder if the heat from the bit would ill affect the base material? I was thinking I would have to run the bit just below (or above) the base material so the edge would sit flat, are edges generally the same thickness as a new base?
One more questions: What would you guys use as a filler, strait epoxy with pigment to match or is there a way to add a rubber compound to make it more flexible? Sorry for all the questions, starting to think I just need to do it and see how things work out.

[doughboyshredder]

I've been trying to figure out a good way to do this also. Would sure be nice to know how customsplitboards pulls it off with such a nice finish.

[skidesmond]

Various way to fill in the slot. Definitely need epoxy for the edge. Also think about the top of the edge.... It will be sticking out past the side wide wall. That's why in my mock-up I added p-tex as a filler to support the edge and to fill in the gap. If you can fit VDS in also that would be a plus since it's normally used anyway. I would worry more about the router bit ruining the board more than the heat being generated. Eventually you'll just have to try it. Let us know how it comes out.

[mountainbikeak]

skidesmond- Did you route that out on a table or by hand? I'm thinking the camber would affect the cut if routed on a table, maybe not. as far as filling the gap goes, I think because it won't be tapered like a normal sidewall but at a 90 degree angle the edge will actually have material over it. Got some edge coming from skibuilders, I’m thinking I'll give it a go next week some time. Thanks again

[Brazen]

the way we do it is to route out the sidewalls on the cnc to accommodate the edge tangs. IMO it's probably best not to take any thickness from the base material...less tune ups/life. I'm just sayin'.

[mountainbikeak]

I plan on routing just under the base material or what ever the height of the edge is, in theory I shouldn't compromise the base... that's the plan anyway!

[Brazen]

I show .024mm but hey, harbor freight caliper

[skidesmond]

skidesmond- Did you route that out on a table or by hand? I'm thinking the camber would affect the cut if routed on a table, maybe not. as far as filling the gap goes, I think because it won't be tapered like a normal sidewall but at a 90 degree angle the edge will actually have material over it. Got some edge coming from skibuilders, I’m thinking I'll give it a go next week some time. Thanks again

I used a router by hand, but my mock-up was a flat piece of wood, no camber of bends to worry about. Post pics of the results.

[mountainbikeak]

I ended up messing with this just a bit on suday night, and think I have it figured out for the most part. I was able to find a board at a pawn shop for $20 so we had something to throw a couple experiments at. For this one we actually used a table saw to cut the grooves I needed and it went well, the only part that wouldn't work on a table saw is tip and tail. I'm going to try splitting another one and use a slot cutter and router and see how that goes. I'll post some pics once I get more done with it.

My question now is about epoxy. I had some g/flex around and used that on a 12" section and after warmed it up in front of the heater it worked out well through a syringe. This stuff seems pretty spendy, is there a good quality epoxy out there that would work for this that's a bit nicer on the pocket book and possibly less viscous? Thanks for the advice.
josh

[skidesmond]

I've used the 5min and 50min epoxy for repairs. Costs $5-$6, a couple tubes may do the trick. You can get it at most hardware stores (Home Depot...)