Press/Mold Rib Width?

[WhitePine]

I'm designing a fabric press to be used to make both skis and snowboards. Any tips on how wide the press/mold ribs should be?

Is a few centimeters wider than the widest pair of skis/board I make enough? Or should I go wider?

Also, how far apart should the skis be when pressing both skis at once?

Plunge router or fixed router? What are the pros and cons of each?

I've noticed that some people use aluminum or steel cat-tracks while others use wood. Is wood sufficient or is it too flexible?

Has anyone ever built a splitboard? Any tips on construction? The only thread I could find about building one was a while ago and the guy didn't split the two halves until after pressing the board.

Thanks in advance for any help. Looking forward to building my own sticks.

[twizzstyle]

The only person I've seen talk about split boards on here was doughboyshredder. You might see if he had much luck with it.

What are you using the router for? Fixed is fine for most things. A plunge is handy, but certainly not necessary.

[doughboyshredder]

The only person I've seen talk about split boards on here was doughboyshredder. You might see if he had much luck with it.

What are you using the router for? Fixed is fine for most things. A plunge is handy, but certainly not necessary.

Haven't built any splits, although I may make a pair or two of convertible mono skis.

There is a thread here somewhere about a girl in cali that built a few splits. I remember she did a great job. Hmmm, where'd that thread go?

can't find it with google.

[thefreshpimpofbigair]

dough, that post was on graf....
def. a cool chick.
http://www.grafsnowboards.com/forum/vie ... d4735f3b23

another one...
http://www.grafsnowboards.com/forum/vie ... d4735f3b23

WP- give yer self as much room as you can. glass, plastics, rubber, all overhang to a certain degree, and epoxy squeezes out....more room helps contain the mess.
skis could almost touch or not- it dosent matter (but dont listen to me, ive only made 1 pair.)
as for cat tracks mine is steel, and i sure wish it wasnt. Al. is better.
plunge routers are for old guys (sorry oac) that make signs.
i,ve cut plenty of factory boards in half..... they will get softer.
as for cat tracks mine is steel, and i sure wish it wasnt. Al. is better.

R

[doughboyshredder]

dough, that post was on graf....
def. a cool chick.
http://www.grafsnowboards.com/forum/vie ... d4735f3b23

another one...
http://www.grafsnowboards.com/forum/vie ... d4735f3b23


R

Thanks man!

Kind of frustrated that I can't get on graf. Don't think something that Dan has on the back end is working with chrome. That's all I can figure.

[WhitePine]

So a plunge router is for making signs? Is there nothing about making skis or snowboards that I would need one for?

If that's the case a standalone fixed router would be cheaper. Any suggestions for router models? I heard Bosch is solid.

[skidesmond]

So a plunge router is for making signs? Is there nothing about making skis or snowboards that I would need one for?

If that's the case a standalone fixed router would be cheaper. Any suggestions for router models? I heard Bosch is solid.

I think thefreshpimp was making a joke about the plunge router (maybe not?) Anyway, you can use a fixed based router. I have a Freud Plunge router (yeah I know FOG) which allows you to change the depth of the cut as you go. Bosch make good power tools also.

[WhitePine]

So a plunge router is for making signs? Is there nothing about making skis or snowboards that I would need one for?

If that's the case a standalone fixed router would be cheaper. Any suggestions for router models? I heard Bosch is solid.

I think thefreshpimp was making a joke about the plunge router (maybe not?) Anyway, you can use a fixed based router. I have a Freud Plunge router (yeah I know FOG) which allows you to change the depth of the cut as you go. Bosch make good power tools also.

Do you find it useful?

[skidesmond]

Yes. It's a trade off though. Plunge routers are usually larger and more powerful. They can be awkward at times because of their size. They can also be put into a router table. The bits cost a lot more because they are 1/2 shafts, but I have an adapter so it can take 1/4 shaft bits too.

I use mine for trimming the sidewalls w/ a 22 degree bit. As I'm trimming the sidewall I can adjust the depth of the bit so the bearing stays on the metal edge. This can be pretty scarey. I know their must be a better way, less dangerous way, just haven't researched it enough. I probably should be using a router table....

A fixed based or even a trim router works well too. Trim routers are smaller easier to handle and I've thought about getting one.

Look at getting a variable speed router. You just have to figure what tasks you want to use the router for and then the best way to do it w/ what you have.

Bosch make good power tools

[EricW]

I would get a fixed based router unless you are looking at applications which require plunging. In skis and snowboards, I don't really see the need. I disagree with skidesmond that plungers are typically more powerful. Any horsepower and amperage you can get with a plunge you can get with a fixed base.

Most routers that don't suck come with both a 1/4" and 1/2" collet. If you really can't decide, you can always get a combination kit that comes with both both bases and an interchangeable motor.

Personally, I'm going for the Bosch 1618 with the D-handle. It's $240 with 2 1/4hp. Plenty of power, but then again, I'll be using a router bridge. I'll likely get a trim router to clean up the edges. The fine depth adjustment is in standard and METRIC OMG!

Pat Warner sells some excellent sub bases for routers to help keep it under control if needed. He also has a sick fence you can buy for like $400.

Can't really help with the other stuff yet since I'm still working on the press and stuff as well.

[skidesmond]

Hi Eric, It's been awhile since I shopped for routers. When I got mine say 10-12 years ago maybe that was more true. I checked my router it's a Freud FT2000E 3 1/4 hp Plunge router soft start, which is another nice feature. It's HD, big and heavy.

I did a bit of searching and you're correct, the newer routers are lighter and more versatile. Some come w/ fixed base and plunge base like the Porter Cable. Options depend on the uses you'll have for it.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/tools/default.aspx

http://www.consumersearch.com/router-reviews

I have a Craftsman 1 1/4 hp fix based router that server me well for 20 years, but it's time for a new one. The base doesn't stay tight and it tends to loosen causing the bit to travel deeper... not good.

[G-man]

Currently, I'm up to 21 different routers. I use each one for a single dedicated ski building task. I use everything from trim routers all the way up to big 3 1/2hp routers that are mounted to shaper tables and CNC machines. As I move a ski down the assemble line, all I have to do is reach up and pull down the router that is already set up for that particular operation. So, I have quite a lot of experience with routers. That being the case, if I were to be in a position where I was needing to limit myself to just one router for the entire process of building a ski or snowboard, I would get a 1 1/2 (ish) hp, variable speed, plunge router. A plunge router is a must (regardless if you're a FOG or a FYG) if you are going to be using template guide bushings. Most folks don't even know how to use guide bushings, but they are one of the most valuable tools one can use for ski building. Variable speed is an absolute must if you are cutting plastics or running large cutters. If you haven't tried cutting at various speeds, you just don't know what you are missing out on, in terms of cut quality. Single speed routers cut way too fast for most jobs, and end up burning, shredding, or melting the work material. Running larger cutters at much slower speeds allows the router to run MUCH smoother, thus vastly increasing the router's bearing life. Yes, plunge and variable speed routers cost more, but I feel it's really worth while to save up the router funds for a little longer in order to get a tool that will do so much more for you in the long run. I have about every brand of router made, and my very favorite router, by far, is a Dewalt 2 1/4 hp plunge/variable speed router (model DW 621). I have two of them, and they are both about 10 years old, and in addition to building skis, one of them made all the siding and trim (inside and outside) for my house and a neighbor's house, and it's still running strong.

G-man

[skidesmond]

Wow, 21 routers! Must have a nice set-up.

[WhitePine]

Wow that is a lot of routers G-man. Are you making skis professionally?

So you are saying that you need a plunge router to use guide bushings? I was under the impression you could use a fixed base router since it has microfine depth adjustment.

[Dave H]

You can build a one piece core also and then split the raw core and then laminate like two skis also. You do not need as wide or strong a press/track/mold/heater/bladder then. You may get a little variation in camber but unnoticebale once you fasten the two halves.