Found someone locally who can cut the core - bookmatched core made using the least number of cuts
I think this is ok
Annealed the edges before bending them
Carbide or carbide tipped will mill aluminium at slow speed - 0.5mm at a time.
More Monkey business
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
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doughboyshredder
- Posts: 1354
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MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
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Concerning a paper wanted to write.
I did a ski with paper the schedule
Quality of a seal and pressing turns out excellent.
That is badly that the paper is stratified in itself. And from scratchs it too it will be possible to be torn.
It is necessary either apply topsheet or to varnish.
p.s. In plans was to use a varnish as a blanket. A ski at me have failed))) (technical difficulties)
p.p.s. =) if will use it is necessary to cover a paper from the return side with a white paint differently a paper appears through. A paint naturally which is glued epoxy.
I did a ski with paper the schedule
Quality of a seal and pressing turns out excellent.
That is badly that the paper is stratified in itself. And from scratchs it too it will be possible to be torn.
It is necessary either apply topsheet or to varnish.
p.s. In plans was to use a varnish as a blanket. A ski at me have failed))) (technical difficulties)
p.p.s. =) if will use it is necessary to cover a paper from the return side with a white paint differently a paper appears through. A paint naturally which is glued epoxy.
From R with l 
Murchonn
Murchonn
doughboy, this is how I create an accurate template. I use the annealed edge as a guide, so I can run the bearing of a flush trim bit cutter along this edge cut the template. The picture shows the mdf post cut. I only trim with the router, so I don't over load the cutter.
The Aluminium is 2mm thick and the router is set a 2/7. It cuts well provided you don't try and cut to much at a time (over heating causes the edge to serrate) I remove as much as possible before I trim. I would certainly use a bigger mdf template next time and keep my fingers further away. AL feels like it cuts better than mdf, but CARBIDE is the only way to go if you don't have the right milling tool - google is a good source for info on this process.
Don't process AL and steel at the same time - apparently its a bad thing to do in a small space.
I made a mistake with the tips - I didn't allow for 2mm edge and 0.5 mm for expansion. I've processed the tips again and its good to go.
Misha - Большое спасибо за информацию. Я ламинирования бумаги, используя полиуретановые, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PAINT-PROTECTION- ... 27b523e53c # ht_500wt_1154 Я надеюсь, что это будет Справка с царапинами, но это дорого. Рисовая бумага очень тонкая, я попытался цветной эпоксидной смолой, но это не здорово. Спасибо за ваш вклад. Я надеюсь, что Google перевел мое сообщение правильно. Ее было время, так как я посетил Москвa.
I was thinking about how to resolve the expansion issue within the cassette, PTFE tape or spray. I followed up on something MM posted and found this . Magnets beneath the cassette, PTFE film and PE film?
The Aluminium is 2mm thick and the router is set a 2/7. It cuts well provided you don't try and cut to much at a time (over heating causes the edge to serrate) I remove as much as possible before I trim. I would certainly use a bigger mdf template next time and keep my fingers further away. AL feels like it cuts better than mdf, but CARBIDE is the only way to go if you don't have the right milling tool - google is a good source for info on this process.
Don't process AL and steel at the same time - apparently its a bad thing to do in a small space.
I made a mistake with the tips - I didn't allow for 2mm edge and 0.5 mm for expansion. I've processed the tips again and its good to go.
Misha - Большое спасибо за информацию. Я ламинирования бумаги, используя полиуретановые, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PAINT-PROTECTION- ... 27b523e53c # ht_500wt_1154 Я надеюсь, что это будет Справка с царапинами, но это дорого. Рисовая бумага очень тонкая, я попытался цветной эпоксидной смолой, но это не здорово. Спасибо за ваш вклад. Я надеюсь, что Google перевел мое сообщение правильно. Ее было время, так как я посетил Москвa.
I was thinking about how to resolve the expansion issue within the cassette, PTFE tape or spray. I followed up on something MM posted and found this . Magnets beneath the cassette, PTFE film and PE film?
Last edited by Richuk on Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:36 pm, edited 7 times in total.
Thks Chrismp - I'm just using the equipment I have to hand for the time being. I've been able to get sample materials for free. The aim is to be able to show a printer what I want and then they have a template to work from, work towards.
I'm not using the usual topsheet - I still need to find a good supply, but what I am using gives the right impression. In the back of my mind I know that I still have a lot of work to do with design and core materials, but if this works as per initial testing, then it does its job as a temporary cover/solution; I still want to be able to strip back and see what is happening inside the ski.
I wonder if you'll get a bond if you press without a topsheet and then bond the topsheet to the epoxy. It means the ski/board goes in the press a second time, but that no great shakes.
Those heaters rock btw
I'm not using the usual topsheet - I still need to find a good supply, but what I am using gives the right impression. In the back of my mind I know that I still have a lot of work to do with design and core materials, but if this works as per initial testing, then it does its job as a temporary cover/solution; I still want to be able to strip back and see what is happening inside the ski.
I wonder if you'll get a bond if you press without a topsheet and then bond the topsheet to the epoxy. It means the ski/board goes in the press a second time, but that no great shakes.
Those heaters rock btw
Nice looking mold, if you are set on making parts then attaching them to a flat sheet beware. Make sure no resin can get between the sheet and the pieces. I made quite a few this way at PM Gear. they used to work for about 100 skis then die from the resin getting in all the crack and forcing the bits apart.
If you bond them or weld them together, or be very very dedicated about polishing them each time you use them.
If you bond them or weld them together, or be very very dedicated about polishing them each time you use them.
Thks for the heads up Tom, if I can find the right materials cheaply, then I will follow the route taken by 4frnt and place a lining in the mold. Swearing a lot is the other option. Just need to get this thing working and then do my own design.
This should have been the first step ... the washer is 2.5 mm thick, which means 0.5 mm expansion all the way round.
This should have been the first step ... the washer is 2.5 mm thick, which means 0.5 mm expansion all the way round.
Last edited by Richuk on Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
I will check it out. It does give you the opportunity to evaluate the work before adding a potentially costly topsheet.
I've spent a bit of time removing the tooling from the edges of the mold - stone and oil. I have re-worked the tips - the process above works really well, but a bit of hand finishing is necessary to get them perfect.
Focusing on this process has helped me look again at the wooden jigs and iron out the kinks. The aluminium can be used as a template - the bearing is run along the edge once it has been attached to the mdf - small revisions, but helpful when thinking about getting an even pressure for attaching plastic edges. I'm happy cutting up to 3 mm sheet using a carbide bit, but this is a make do process and I will try and get hold of a bit to mill the aluminium correctly.
When I get time I'll go back to the junk yard and ask them for more aluminium - there's happy enough to help and they get a few big pieces every now and then.
I've spent a bit of time removing the tooling from the edges of the mold - stone and oil. I have re-worked the tips - the process above works really well, but a bit of hand finishing is necessary to get them perfect.
Focusing on this process has helped me look again at the wooden jigs and iron out the kinks. The aluminium can be used as a template - the bearing is run along the edge once it has been attached to the mdf - small revisions, but helpful when thinking about getting an even pressure for attaching plastic edges. I'm happy cutting up to 3 mm sheet using a carbide bit, but this is a make do process and I will try and get hold of a bit to mill the aluminium correctly.
When I get time I'll go back to the junk yard and ask them for more aluminium - there's happy enough to help and they get a few big pieces every now and then.
Last edited by Richuk on Sun Oct 03, 2010 2:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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doughboyshredder
- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
So smart. I hadn't thought of doing this before.Richuk wrote:doughboy, this is how I create an accurate template. I use the annealed edge as a guide, so I can run the bearing of a flush trim bit cutter along this edge cut the template.
I did this today. Using the edge eliminates minor imperfections from sanding the mdf by hand.
This forum is so awesome for the exchange of little ideas that can be so great!
Thanks Richuk!