Edge tines
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Edge tines
Could a person remove half of them and still have a good bond? Trying to think of every minute weight saving detail that could go in to a convertible monoski.
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You know if you're not doing rails, and generally careful about not hitting rocks/logs, I bet you'd be fine. The bond will be fine, longevity might be jeopardized slightly (but not by much, and you'd have to be damaging the edges and getting cracks, etc)
I can't imagine the weight savings will be much though! That's like spec miata race guys using the bare minimum oil necessary, just to save a pound or two on the car. But I guess every little bit counts!
I can't imagine the weight savings will be much though! That's like spec miata race guys using the bare minimum oil necessary, just to save a pound or two on the car. But I guess every little bit counts!
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that's why burton vapor has only 8 inserts. Damn man 24 inserts has quite a bit of weight, but going with say 4 less and having wood and all the other materials there x 4 (core + top glass + 2layer of epoxy + topsheet), its going to make a negligible difference. But going from 24 to 8, yea I could see that shaving weight.
Worse comes to worse you could always just grind down every tine and leave just a pinch so you still have something in that spot to bond to base.
Dude, also search for a lighter epoxy... they all have different weights and tradeoffs.
And you could do the no topsheet style board, cover it with an unabraded plastic or something that you can peel away after pressing, or precure.
Lighten up the bindings too... and the belly
Oh you can always drill holes all over the nose/tail when done too. My new Rome boots are super light too, I love them 
Worse comes to worse you could always just grind down every tine and leave just a pinch so you still have something in that spot to bond to base.
Dude, also search for a lighter epoxy... they all have different weights and tradeoffs.
And you could do the no topsheet style board, cover it with an unabraded plastic or something that you can peel away after pressing, or precure.
Lighten up the bindings too... and the belly


Doug
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Hey, there's a thought. Use perforated release ply like you would if you were vacuum bagging, and a layer of breather cloth above it (to soak up the resin).knightsofnii wrote: And you could do the no topsheet style board, cover it with an unabraded plastic or something that you can peel away after pressing, or precure.
I get my vacuum bagging supplies here...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/c ... sheets.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/c ... eather.php
(I don't vacuum bag my skis, but have lots of other projects where I'm bagging stuff into molds).
Fiberlay (in Seattle) also has bagging supplies for cheap.