Lets talk about epoxy

[Idris]

i ll do a mock up using 2 different epoxy resins next days, after i got my materials package


another question: from my wood core upwards the lay up will be something like that: wood core - 800gr/sm triaxial glass - printed linen fabric - 100gr/sm glass fabric - peel ply(something out of nylon) - perforated release film - bleeder - plastic bag (i think we all know where to put the resin)....now the question: is it right to put a perforated release film between peel ply and bleeder??

Perforated release film IS peel ply

[sir.orange]

"peel ply" i thought is the very last layer of fabric to leave a structure on the ski and being peeled of afterwards. the perforated release film, which should be a foil with tiny holes in it, to absorb the excess resin... sorry for my english. what are the expressions in english? in german it s "abreißgewebe" and "lochfolie" ... if it s helpful for anybody

[thehotfire]

I was just wondering which hardener you use for West system epoxy.

[sammer]

I'm using slow hardener, way more time = less panic during layup.

sam

[dg]

usually peel-ply (abreissgewebe) goes directly on the part and is kind of laminated to it. This is then peeled off after cure to leave a rough surface which can be overbonded.

Release film (lochfolie) is a plastic sheet which does not bond - exists with and without holes.

You can also use the perforated film directly on the part with a layer of bleeder above to absorb the excess resin, or you can use peel ply on the part. When I've used peel-ply directly I have also put release film above it to get the breather off it more easily - otherwise the resin soaked breather made it hard to peel the peel ply.

Check this : http://www.netcomposites.com/education.asp?sequence=81

dan

[sir.orange]

usually peel-ply (abreissgewebe) goes directly on the part and is kind of laminated to it. This is then peeled off after cure to leave a rough surface which can be overbonded.

Release film (lochfolie) is a plastic sheet which does not bond - exists with and without holes.

You can also use the perforated film directly on the part with a layer of bleeder above to absorb the excess resin, or you can use peel ply on the part. When I've used peel-ply directly I have also put release film above it to get the breather off it more easily - otherwise the resin soaked breather made it hard to peel the peel ply.

Check this : http://www.netcomposites.com/education.asp?sequence=81

dan

dan, thanks for that!

i did 2 test laminations

1. 2mm beech, 2 layers glass one saturated with a t50 epoxy 100:60 (relatively slow curing) and one layer with ht 2 epoxy from r&g, its especially uv durable and clear, i ll use it as top layer (total curing after 24h)

the reuslt was a very good bonding, it think i can use these 2 epoxies in one ski at the same lamination process

2. was about how the top looks with a peel ply. one half was covered with a release film (with holes and a breather) the right side was covered with a 105gramms peel ply. the link below is connected to the image

result, nice structure, the graphics got a little blurred and i think snow and ice will bond very easily to the top and remain there.
the paper became nearly transparent but i want a total white, so maybe a thicker paper or even pvc foil which is much more expansive must do the job


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9K0V5_qTv6Q/S ... MG1999.JPG