Sublimation-PBT/NYLON/UHMW

For discussions related to the type of materials to build skis/snowboards and where to get them.

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falls
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Post by falls »

$40 a topsheet + discount for quantity - I would go with CODA for sure. I think ben_mtl has a guy in Eastern canada that has doen stuff for him before too (?). However, if you can get someone local up to speed it may work out well in the long run, but probably a bit of teething issues in the short term.
I think ISOsport are the way to go for PBT and nylon topsheet material. From all I have read on here subbing UHMWPE is a bit of an ordeal.
I talked to a kiteboard maker in QLD, Australia who has made their own subbing press. Needs to be hot, but I recall that the pressure isn't needing to be excessive (maybe 30PSI?). Just enough to make everything flat and ensure good contact between the printed paper and the plastic. He is subbing to PBT. He also told me something about using an added piece of nylon 'paper' to absorb any moisture during pressing. He then said "you'll see what I mean if you don't". Not sure how relevant this is but he made it sound a bit like it was a trade secret. The inks and transfer sheet are pretty easy to come by from the research I have done.
The local sublimater should have good knowledge of the process, but you might go through a bit of topsheet in tests before you get it right.
In terms of masking the topsheets once they're cooked it is pretty much like applying contact paper to a book.
Usually the film comes on a roll that sits on a stand on the table. You pull it out and lay it on the topsheet then use a roller or squeege to deal with any air bubbles. You definitely want a "clean" room for this as any dust under this film will dent your tops during pressing. My last pair of skis I did this masking with contact paper and found it was really a good idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAAYIeDWQYQ
some good utube vids from never summer
2min 30 sec in they go to their graphics place. They actually have a machine that rolls the masking film on automatically.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

sweet vid.
Awesome info.
I heard they use allot of migrant labor in the factory in the summer. They make good stuff from what I have seen.

From what I am gathering the UHMW base sublimation is an epoxy ink that is uses to flood the base and is screened to produce images, similer to what you would have to do for the topsheet? Hassle. Not what I am looking to do.

The sublimation ink for PBT/NYLON is what I am looking for. I guess I would have to pony up for PBT from isosport. I just don't want to order oversees at minimums but I realize that is the reality.
I may attempt some sublimation on raw wood veneer. We will see what happens. I would put light glass over top.
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falls
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Post by falls »

I heard they use allot of migrant labor in the factory in the summer
But it's NeverSummer :)
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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falls
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Post by falls »

I think at the start of that video they are using one of those pneumatic drum sanders to sand the edges of a long skateboard too.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
ben_mtl
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Post by ben_mtl »

MontuckyMadman wrote:I guess I would have to pony up for PBT from isosport. I just don't want to order oversees at minimums but I realize that is the reality.
Maybe if a few USA/Canada people want some material from Isosport we could make a group buy. Price depending I would be in for some clear Nylon topsheet.
A bad day skiing is always better than a good one at work...
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falls
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Post by falls »

http://www.vimeo.com/13395034
MM they do some subbing onto wood veneer in this vid
Signal seem to use a rolling sublimation press (used for sublimation of long rolls of fabric or banners) rather than the flatbed press others use.
Not sure how helpful it is but you get to see some of their other toys like CNC edge bender and they make a snowboard entirley out of wood - not even plastic base!
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Well it just means I will sub onto wood for sure now.

Awesome thanks!!!!
jellyfish
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Post by jellyfish »

Any luck subbing onto wood ? Would like to try that as well
knightsofnii
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Post by knightsofnii »

subbing onto crown base, turns them into shrinky dinks... alll your graphics get skewed, if you have anything you're trying to align, like words, or stripes or something, they end up like boomerangs when you get them

sublimate to pbt tops, sublimate to iso bases, i dont know anything about subbing crown tops but i know im not yet 100% satisfied with the bondability of their clear stuff. Which doesnt make sense because their clear base bonds fine
Doug
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Subbing with polyester compatable inks on wood does not adhere.
my new idea is to coat the wood witha polyester resin that can handle the temp of sublimation, let dry, then sub to that. Should work. Havnt tetsed it. Having trouble finding specs on a polyester resin that can handle the 350F temp of sublimation.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
Sherpa Burns
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Post by Sherpa Burns »

MM, I just posted a topic about this in the design and layup section...kinda. I am wanting to print graphics onto wood veneers. Think of a light birch or similar and graphics over that to eliminate as much plastic as possible. I have a buddy with a large format flatbed printer. I believe it is a uv printer. Im trying to find out what inks are used to make sure they agree with the resins we use.
He said he has printed on laminate flooring and straight wood so the veneer and inks should get along on that side of things.
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Oh yeah you can print on wood if you have a great printer and want to run a wood veneer through it I was just trying to eliminate this step as I figured sublimation would be easier.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
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