on bonding ptex sidewalls, and delams

For discussions related to the type of materials to build skis/snowboards and where to get them.

Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp

G-man
Posts: 600
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:58 pm
Location: northern sierra nevada

Post by G-man »

I’d say you should try some targeted experiments with your sidewall materials and your processes to see if you can find where you’re going wrong. Not in a whole board… just small sample preparations and layups until you find the problem.
Hey Mike,

I was hoping you'd post a comment. I thought it looked like you were using UHMW sidewalls, and I knew that you wouldn't do anything that wasn't top notch. I think your comment above is the very important for anyone who is trying to build consistently good boards or skis. Because I got one bad batch of hardener a few months ago, I now do a test sample of each new batch of epoxy that I get. I also test each new batch of Crown material, and I periodically test a piece of base material from a roll that has been laying around for awhile, just to make sure that the surface treatment hasn't degraded too much over time. Knowing that my raw materials are as they should be helps to reduce the variables, should I encounter some new problem with a lay-up.

You and others have made some good points, particularly regarding the abrading process. I was using 40 grit and sanding until I got a surface that looked like the abraded surface that is present on the material that comes from Crown... or maybe even more rough than Crown's. Doug also indicated that he "sanded these things for an hour". The link that I posted last night suggested that abrading to any degree prior to flame treating may, in fact, decrease bond strength. I hadn't seen that before, after literally hundreds of hours of research. Sounds like the perfect subject for a targeted experiment using three different surface preparations... one not abraded at all, one only slightly abraded, and one aggressively abraded... all variations done on a 12 inch long by 4 inch wide sample, with a 4 inch section of the sample prepped with each variation. Then, flame treat the entire 12 inch section as a whole, lay it up, press it, cure it, and cut the test strip into three 4 inch sections and then see what it takes to get each of the samples to delaminate.

Your thoughts on using MEK are also interesting. I've always used acetone to clean the base material before lay-up, and I've beat my skis on the asphalt pavement and run over them with the car dozens of times trying to get them to delaminate, and the base bond has always been really solid, so I think acetone is okay, but I've never used MEK. It sure would be interesting to get a skibuilders.com interview with the surface treatment head guy at Crown... wasn't that in the works at some point a couple of years ago? If ski and snowboard builders are buying Crown's 1/2 inch UHMW to use as sidewall material, you'd think that Crown would have an interest in trying to assure that we're all having success with using their material.

Okay Doug, if Doughboy and Mike are having such good (and consistent) results using UHMW for sidewalls, and they're flame treating by hand-held propane torch, we should all pay close attention to what thoughts and experience they have to share. I won't do the test I described above because I'm going in a different direction at this time, but a similar test seems, as Mike indicated, to be the key to working out this UHMW sidewall thing.

G-man
knightsofnii
Posts: 1148
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:02 am
Location: NJ USA
Contact:

Post by knightsofnii »

very strange, at about 2am I had posted a lengthy response to this...oh well

Mike and doughboy, if either of you could videotape yourselves flame treating the sidewalls, I'd love to see your techniques.

MEK was off a recommendation from Roy at QCM, I think he also mentions it in the Q&A forum that he did.

Yea I definitely wanna do some tests before I build up another UHMW board. I took an old board we messed up, that had the sidewalls sanded and flamed by Lindsay at SBM, I tried to rip the sidewalls out of it, one of them came out with a little bit of force, the other I couldn't pull out, it was definitely glued as solid as the other layers. And that was with crap marine epoxy, eh, not crap just not ideal for the flex/dampening I want.

Its good to know, now, that I could be over sanding, and if that vid from doughboy is any indication of how to flame treat, i'm most likely over flaming and using the wrong part of the flame at the same time. But it would be nice to see this stuff.

Another thing I'd love to do, is pay one or two of you a visit some day, exchange notes, build and have some beers, etc. whatcha think?
doug
Doug
User avatar
wildschnee
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:14 am
Location: powderhausen
Contact:

xxxx

Post by wildschnee »

@ head monkey

Du you real think the mix of epoxi volum ore wight cam be the diferent of bond ore delamination ?????

I think the epoxi had an window of 10 % of mix marks.

Your point of heat ( cool with water ) finish is good .


My mine : test befor bonding the surface of the petxe OBERFLÄCHENSPANNUG - German - I dont now in english ..

but water on the surface of the test material - water pearls - is not ok - water flow up like a thin film it is ok.

Burton
ride on .
User avatar
Head Monkey
Posts: 310
Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 4:53 pm
Location: Carnation, WA
Contact:

Post by Head Monkey »

I busted up my only camcorder early in the season and I haven’t gotten around to replacing it yet. When I do, I’ll make you a video. Until then, I use the tip of the flame from a standard propane torch, on pass, moving approx 4-5 in/sec.

As for a visit, send me a PM sometime and I’m sure we can work something out. I enjoy having local builders over for a chat :)
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
doughboyshredder
Posts: 1354
Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm

Post by doughboyshredder »

Pretty much the same method, but I do a couple passes, and I do it right before they go in to the layup.

Supposedly this shouldn't matter, because the flame treating creates a molecular change, but I figure it burns off any contaminants, so it doesn't hurt.
thefreshpimpofbigair
Posts: 47
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 6:55 am
Location: CB, CO

corona discharge??

Post by thefreshpimpofbigair »

ive been using the flame treatment w/ mixed results....but have been considering modifying an ozone generator (the uv light, if i understand is used in this process) anyone have experience in using this process?
i understand the dangers of uv light (dont look- you'll go blind), but as most, would like to find a more consistent method.
SEMPER LIBERTAS
thefreshpimpofbigair
Posts: 47
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 6:55 am
Location: CB, CO

Post by thefreshpimpofbigair »

oh, yeah.... are the majority of you experiencing delam between:
1.edges/base -glass#1
2.glass#1 - sidewall
3.sidewall- glass #2
4.sidewall -core
my delam occured between the bottom glass and sidewall. i used cheap in a double syringe 2-ton epoxy from the hardware store for the bond to the core... bomber. i was never worried about that one during profiling. what concerened me more was abrading then flaming the top and bottom of the attached, profiled sidewall.
SEMPER LIBERTAS
teleman36
Posts: 79
Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:22 pm
Location: new england

Post by teleman36 »

VDS foil is used above, below, and BETWEEN sidewall and core on the Icelantic skis made at November Snowboards. There is a nice video on their site. I have been fortunate enough to not have any problems with bonding, but will try some layups with this method, as I am always looking for ways to dampen a ski. Will post results. Will also be trying some adhesive backed wood venier stuck to the sidewalls then glued to the core, as well as a special tape that is used at the factory that makes industrial wear strips to position some of the plastics. Will let you all know if this works out. P.S. I get my UHMWP from this factory. I know the owners, who are skiers. They have all the equipment for cutting the plastics to your specs,as well as helpful info and material handling tips. They ship anywhere. PM me for contact info.
dbtahoe
Posts: 106
Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:57 pm
Location: Lake Tahoe

Post by dbtahoe »

Icelantic Vids. Some good info.
User avatar
MontuckyMadman
Posts: 2395
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm

Post by MontuckyMadman »

I thought the never summer factory employed 100% mexicans when making there skis and boards

great vids on there
kipi
Posts: 21
Joined: Fri Aug 21, 2009 12:35 pm

Post by kipi »

i used Loctite (a very expencive and strong one called "loctite 3904") for laminating my UHMW sidewalls, after flame treating the plastic.

it turened out very good and its a very fast procces.

^_^kipi
sir.orange
Posts: 132
Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:13 am
Location: germany

Post by sir.orange »

i wonder why nobody has problems with bonding the base material!?
it's also polyethylen (pe or p-tex) and seems to work well...i don t understand that

some ideas about sidewalls: a friend of mine he studies plastic engineering showed me a pp-plate (also pe is available) with a fabric attached to one side. the result is a good bonding of the pp or pe plate with reinforced plastic what is normally under chemical aspects not possible.

materials that bond well with ressin is pvc and pp, as i remember... disadvantage: heavier and brittle. anybody tried?
User avatar
MontuckyMadman
Posts: 2395
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm

Post by MontuckyMadman »

I think its a compression and surface area thing.
More compression and more surface area with the base leads to better bonding.
Broflovski
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:58 am

Post by Broflovski »

I was thinking about making some PVC sidewalls instead of UHMW because I have some available. Any drawbacks or advice
User avatar
chrismp
Posts: 1444
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:00 am
Location: Vienna, Austria

Post by chrismp »

i think pvc will be too brittle when exposed to cold temperatures.
Post Reply