well, i had some doubts... so i questioned myself. and now i will question you:
were you ever afraid that waxing could destroy your skis?
following thoughts: my epoxy can withstand temperatures up to 60°. during waxing you apply faaaaaar more heat. so with the base it shouldn`t be a problem if you wax quick so that the heat does not go through the base material. but the metal edges will lead the heat straight in the middle of the skis...to a point whit most of the load and stress during skiing and which has anyway not the strongest bonding of materials(metal...). so damage to the epoxy in the area of the edges will have fatal consequences.
never afraid of that? or do you have better epoxies?
and yeh - i suppose this is just a problem for all of us hobbyists. the guys in the industry are using prepreg laminates. so there is no problem with heat as far as i know.
waxing
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waxing
plywood freeride industries - go ply, ride wood!
I have waxed my skis two times so far and possably again tonight. I have had no problems yet. I have been told to apply the wax with the iron and heat the wax into the base to the point where you can feel the warmth on the underside (top) of the ski. This is how I do it and I will look for any problems in the future.
I seem to remember in the epoxy article from ask the experts that he commented about heat. I think he said no problem (?). Check and see...
rockaukum
I seem to remember in the epoxy article from ask the experts that he commented about heat. I think he said no problem (?). Check and see...
rockaukum
Hey guys,
From the research I've done, most sources indicate that the resin's working temperature (how much heat the cured resin can take before it's physical properties begin to deteriorate) is pretty directly related to the temperature that the resin was originally cured at. So, in theory, if you're using a room temp cure system, your ski can't take as much wax iron heat as a ski that came out of a heated press. I'm currently in the middle of transferring all of my old computer files onto a new computer and I'm in that 'everything is a total mess' phase, so I can't get to the info at the moment, but I seem to recall that epoxy that is cured at 170F has a working temp of about 220F. I think a room cure drops the working temp to about 160F.
If you're heating your ski to the point where you feel the warmth on the top sheet, I'd sure recommend taking your time bringing the ski up to temp. My top sheet gets pretty warm, but I use a relatively cold setting on the iron. I divide the ski up into quarters, and spend about five minutes on each quarter. I try to not smoke the wax, but I still routinely get a bit of smoke... hard to avoid completely. I'm guessing I don't get much over 160 degrees, if that.
Sorry, plywood, for not converting to Celsius... I also couldn't find my units converter link. I should have everything reorganized by the end of the evening
.
G-man
From the research I've done, most sources indicate that the resin's working temperature (how much heat the cured resin can take before it's physical properties begin to deteriorate) is pretty directly related to the temperature that the resin was originally cured at. So, in theory, if you're using a room temp cure system, your ski can't take as much wax iron heat as a ski that came out of a heated press. I'm currently in the middle of transferring all of my old computer files onto a new computer and I'm in that 'everything is a total mess' phase, so I can't get to the info at the moment, but I seem to recall that epoxy that is cured at 170F has a working temp of about 220F. I think a room cure drops the working temp to about 160F.
If you're heating your ski to the point where you feel the warmth on the top sheet, I'd sure recommend taking your time bringing the ski up to temp. My top sheet gets pretty warm, but I use a relatively cold setting on the iron. I divide the ski up into quarters, and spend about five minutes on each quarter. I try to not smoke the wax, but I still routinely get a bit of smoke... hard to avoid completely. I'm guessing I don't get much over 160 degrees, if that.
Sorry, plywood, for not converting to Celsius... I also couldn't find my units converter link. I should have everything reorganized by the end of the evening
.G-man
i was in today getting my new gammas tuned at the shop, and the guy at the shop was telling me how soft my bases were...
He also asked me with previous skis, were they soft and when you wax them and apply heat for a few secs in one spot they would get loose or almost bubble.. any way it was to do with 2001 ptex which is what i got, then there is 4001 ptex which is a little harder then he was saying most the big factories use 8001 ptex. just a thought.
schuss
He also asked me with previous skis, were they soft and when you wax them and apply heat for a few secs in one spot they would get loose or almost bubble.. any way it was to do with 2001 ptex which is what i got, then there is 4001 ptex which is a little harder then he was saying most the big factories use 8001 ptex. just a thought.
schuss
SCHÜSS 2011
I don't know what sort of skis this guy is normaly dealing with. Most low end skis - which make up a huge portion of the market are Ptex 900! There are lots of medium to high (precived) end ski with 2000 series base. And only a few (Race inspired skis, realy high performance) with 4000 series base. Above 4000 you only find in competition specific skis you would be hard pushed to find any in a regular ski store.SCHÜSS wrote:i was in today getting my new gammas tuned at the shop, and the guy at the shop was telling me how soft my bases were...
He also asked me with previous skis, were they soft and when you wax them and apply heat for a few secs in one spot they would get loose or almost bubble.. any way it was to do with 2001 ptex which is what i got, then there is 4001 ptex which is a little harder then he was saying most the big factories use 8001 ptex. just a thought.
schuss
